Zagin Soba's "Cappuccino" Chicken Broth Ramen Comes to Obliterate Our Winter Colds

WF Central has added yet another by-way-of-Hong Kong business, this time opening the posh ramen joint Zagin Soba, and with it, perhaps the best cure for winter chills this side of mainlining Robitussin.

Originally founded in Osaka, Japan, Zagin Soba has since opened two venues in Hong Kong and now heads north to try its luck with the well-to-do patrons of Wangfujing's newest mall, launching its first branch on the mainland. Prices reflect that, and are certainly higher than what you're likely pay at most of the noodle joints around Maizidian and other Japanese enclaves in Beijing, for example. However, for an occasional treat, Zagin Soba is an experience that stays with you for caliber of their noodles alone.

Zagin's signature ingredient is their "tori paitan" chicken broth, which forms the basis for the concise selection of three ramen on the menu: regular, seafood (both RMB 138), and dipping (RMB 148). The broth is incredibly rich, the result of hours of preparation that ends with the chef going at it with an electronic whisk. Though that may not sound so refined, the result is absolutely lush and something akin to a creamy, meaty cappuccino-esque soup that bubbles on the tongue and overshadows the other elements. That's not to say, however, that they go unnoticed.

The flagship bowl comes out the winner of the lot thanks to the pairing of the broth with a hearty slice of sous-vide pork and chicken chashu, weighty elements that match the thick and chewy ramen. A tangled lock of golden fried burdock on the side adds a crispy counterbalance to the weighty goodness below. The dipping option (tsukemen), which comes with a condensed, saltier version of the aforementioned broth hindering the ability to drink it by itself and therefore not quite so as invigorating for the soul. Conversely, the seafood bowl is bursting with so much flavor that it may be too pungent for some. The side dishes are simple and minimalist, which makes the addition of fried chicken (RMB 48) an easy and recommended choice to supplement this already sturdy meal.

The space itself is fairly innocuous (in a good way), with pleasant, dim lighting dividing the booths from the bar, the latter allowing for a front-row seat for all the broth-whisking action. In all, it adds up to an experience that is worth shelling out the extra cash for now and again given that very few places in Beijing will be able to replicate a bowl of these revitalizing noodles.

Zagin Soba
Daily 11.30am-10pm. 410A, 4/F, WF Central, 269 Wangfujing Street, Dongcheng District
东城区王府井大街269号4层410A室

READ: Wangfujing Restaurant Brand Blufish Makes Surprising Left Turn In Sanlitun

Photos: Tom Arnstein