Both Hit & Miss: Cabare European Restaurant Opens in Solana

Cabare has joined the club of defiantly high-priced eateries dotting Solana Bar Street. Touting itself as “European cuisine with a Mediterranean influence,” Cabare offers everything from oysters to quiche, eggplant parmigiana to steak frites, and nothing says Mediterranean quite like Caesar salad. Like the mildly bipolar décor (wide-screen TVs vs. glittering chandelier), the food here is both hit and miss.

The gambas al ajillo (shrimp with garlic, RMB 55) was savory and the gazpacho (RMB 32) rich and smoky, but the paella marinara (RMB 120) was an anemic attempt at the crusty concoction that makes Spaniards so proud. The chorizo sausage in cider (RMB 40) was both sweet and excessively salty, confusing the palate of an already befuddled diner.

But service was engaging and the dessert, Gin and Tonic on a Plate, is a marvelous medley of jello shots topped with pepper flakes and tangy lemon sorbet – the most inventive, refreshing treat I’ve had in Beijing.

Standout dishes: Gin and tonic on a plate

Also try: Naijo, Olas Tapas Café

Daily 9am-2.30am. 15-1, Bldg 15, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District (5905 1760) 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾15号楼15-1号

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