Now You Eat Them, Now You Don’t: Beijing's Vanishing Snacks

The Beijinger’s dining editor Jen Leung has been making our mouths water with a run-down of various Beijing xiaochi (“small eats” or snacks) over the last few weeks, from xingren doufu (almond tofu) to luzhu huoshao (pork belly). As Jen has noted, however, the number of outlets selling these snacks is rapidly dwindling. In fact, yesterday’s Global Times claimed these tasty traditional nibbles “are disappearing at a rate of 20 to 30 percent every year, according to estimates by a concerned snack association, and may eventually vanish completely.”

Development and rampant capitalism have left Beijing with only a few dozen traditional snack markets. “Renovations,” such as the demolition job executed on Qianmen before the Olympics, have wiped out many areas where locals once met and snacked. And with fast food joints spreading like wildfire, traditional snacks are no longer a store holder’s best bet in terms of profit.

Many Beijinger’s are pushing to have these traditional snacks saved. One resident quoted in the Global Times article commented these local snacks were “an important part of my childhood.” He further claimed, “For us Beijing locals, life without these traditional snacks would be like fish living without water.”

While not everyone can get excited about intestines or offal, even these seemingly unappetizing snacks are part of Beijing’s tradition. So grab your favorites and try some of the scarier options before the chance is gone – check out the cover story in this month’s issue of the Beijinger for a full guide to these local culinary delights.