Jusong: Contemporary Chinese with Mao

Ever had simple, regional Chinese food in a contemporary setting? No, because restaurants can’t charge enough to cover rents in places like Sanlitun Village North. Unless they dream up dubious “themes” and decorate dishes with cherry tomato halves. Jusong’s theme concerns the Great Helmsman – specifically, famous banquets he presided over (RMB 250-440 per couple).

As Mao was a cosmopolitan chap, his Western favorites are featured here in the form of oxtail soup and prawn cocktail. But “serving the people” isn’t a dogma the staff bothered with. The food was average and overpriced – RMB 168 for “red-braised” pork (hongshao rou). And the art-bookshop-meets-coffee-bar setting just jars. To rebel is justified.

Standout dishes: “Lion’s head” meatballs, tiramisu

Jusong Daily 11am-9.30pm. LG-15, Sanlitun Village North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6413 2275) 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village北区LG-15

Click here to see the December issue of the Beijinger in full.

Photos: Nature Zhang