Modernista: Gulou Modern

Whoever was in charge of marketing Modernista’s opening deserves a prize. About 300 people descended on sleepy Baochao Hutong for free booze, tapas and live gypsy jazz. Seems the local authorities aren’t into gypsy jazz – the party was promptly closed down. Since then, Modernista has settled down as a relaxed, artsy hipster joint, with checkerboard flooring and a smoky 1930s vibe.

Like other bars in the locale it has a DIY feel, and the three owners (Italian, Spanish and Chinese) have prepared a varied program of cultural events, including talks, screenings and book exchanges. On my visit a Chinese silent movie flickered on the wall as the barman poured absinthe (RMB 40-110) from an impressive selection of bottles. Draft Yanjing starts at RMB 5 for a tiny glass, and bottled beers are mostly European.

A selection of sweet wines and aperitifs lends the place a bit of Old World glamour, and let’s hope the free tapas will be an ongoing offer. Starting this month, the Hot Club of Beijing will be playing live swing and gypsy jazz every Wednesday.

Good for: Artsy conversation

Also try: Zajia, El Nido

Modernista Tues-Sun 3pm-3am. 44 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (136 7127 4747)
东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号

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