Five Things We Loved Eating Last Month

P.S. We Ate You is a regular monthly feature in the Beijinger magazine in which we look back upon our favorite dishes from the previous month. Dig in!

qingtang (清汤)

Wang Pangzi, RMB 2

Whether subways or soup, it’s hard to argue with something that’s two kuai. It’s not much more than its name, but that’s exactly what we want: a translucent mahogany, salty and flavorsome broth speckled with cilantro leaves. Good for solo sipping or as an accompaniment to the trademark donkey burger.

potato soup

Beiluo Bread Bar, RMB 30

This bowl of russet-colored, smooth starch, garnished witha delicate swirl of cream somehow lives up to the gusto ofa chunky, rich potato soup without meddlesome lumps. It’s also offered for what’s arguably the best value on the whole menu – if it were injected with caffeine, we’d get three of these instead of Americanos.

geda tang (疙瘩汤)

Wangasi Muslim Fengwei, RMB 15

We once mistakenly knew it as “peasant soup,” but in fact the name means “pimple.” Heavy with tomato, egg and ribbons of baby bok choy, the ochre broth conceals the prize (and pimples) of this dish: rotund nuggets of dough.If you thought soup was insubstantial, think again.

mushroom soup

Mosto, RMB 95 (part of the two-course lunch set)

If you pureed the forest, this would be the result. The damp floor beneath the redwoods and pine trees is surprisingly complex in its liquid representation. The liquified shiitake supports an island of the tender mushroom, cubed and varnished with a swirl of paprika oil. It’s offered on the midday menu as the first of two courses, if you so choose – a velvety touch to soften your winter workday.

red tofu soup

Okra, RMB 40

You might think it’s miso, but Chef Max Levy is more clever and far more particular than that. If China’s miso isn’t good enough, then a savory red tofu it must be – dotted, naturally, with small treasures: a smoked clam, dried garlic shoots and stars of the restaurant’s namesake.

Read about our many restaurant reviews and openings in the January 2014 issue of the Beijinger.