World’s Most Expensive Coffee Now at Yintai

I’ve heard about Kopi Luwak (or “civet coffee”) a few times, mostly through films. In Kamome Diner (Japan, 2006), the characters dropped the name as a kind of spell, believing that merely uttering the words could make any cup of joe taste good; in The Bucket List (USA, 2007), the coffee became a dying tycoon’s source of happiness. A casual visit to Zambra, a quiet cafe in the basement of the Yintai Centre, finally gave me a chance to taste Kopi Luwak for real. At RMB 4,490 per jin.

Kopi Luwak is indeed the world’s most expensive coffee, not so much because it’s “better” than others, mainly that it’s more rarely encountered. “Kopi” is the Indonesian word for coffee, while “luwak” is the Asian Palm Civet, the indigenous animal that plays an active role in the harvesting of the raw coffee cherries. The luwak feasts on ripe, red coffee cherries, seeking out the sweet taste of the cherry itself, and the parchment-covered coffee beans are passed out of the luwak, with the parchment cover still protecting the green coffee beans. Think of it as a near-perfect live processing factory. Or perhaps don’t think about it for too long.

Zambra have got a certificate of authenticity proving they have been authorized to wash and roast Kopi Luwak, but I still wanted to examine the beans. The friendly waitress Elaine showed me the plain beans and the roasted ones. The latter had a stronger aroma than other coffee beans, even than Mavis Bank, the best Jamaica Blue Mountain beans (RMB 2,460/500g), which is also available at Zambra.

Espresso or black Kopi Luwak (RMB 120/cup, RMB 220/pot) are recommended. I chose the black option, and it was perfect. With a strong aroma and only the mildest acidity, the first taste was not as bitter as a normal black coffee would be. The full, smooth body texture delivered an earthy, musty and exotic flavor, followed by a long-lasting finish. The experts will tell you that Kopi Luwak is syrupy; I’m inclined to disagree, as there wasn’t a hint of caramel or chocolate. Half an hour later, the distinctive flavors were still lingering in my mouth.

Zambra Café is a Hong Kong-based chain run by New Zealand-born brothers Jamie and Blair Donaldson. Kopi Luwak is also available – at the even more inflated price of RMB 370/pot – in De Club at Baiziwan Lu, near the Today Art Museum.

Zambra Cafe. Daily 7am-8pm, LLB01, Bldg C, Yintai Center. 银泰中心C座地下1层LLB01 www.zambra.net/index_files/Page374.htm