The Tree: Standing Strong and Tall After Almost 20 Years

“I wanted to do something with fire somehow. I wanted to have a fire, because it creates such a good atmosphere, and gives that fantastic smell of smoke,” The Tree’s founder Patrick De Smet told the Beijinger in a 2014 interview, celebrating 25 years in Beijing.

That firestarter was called Hidden Tree and opened in 1996, on what was then Sanlitun South Bar Street (now underneath the cement of Sanlitun SOHO). People spoke about it initially in low tones: “They have real pizza,” it was whispered.

When that location was demolished, De Smet found a new, similarly concealed courtyard site just off Sanlitun Back Street, complete with, of course, a large tree that once again sits at the middle of the restaurant.
 

The experience, and the menu, has changed little over the years. The Tree only does a few things, but does them well: pizzas baked in that wood-fired oven, which was moved from the original location; salads; toasted sandwiches, and beer. Oh yes, Belgian beer, did we mention that? While Belgian beer has proliferated in Beijing to the point of even having a bar named Brussels a few years ago (now The Local), it was The Tree that first purveyed it in quantity to the capital. And that’s where The Tree made its name: the place where you could go and get an authentic, wood-fired, handmade pizza, fries/frites served with mayonnaise, and a cold Belgian beer to wash it down.

There’s now also Nearby the Tree, in case the extra 30 meters to reach The Tree is just too far, or in case your navigation skills are poor and you can’t find the flagship location.

In colder months, sitting next to the pizza oven sure feels warm and comfy. The number 10 pizza, with Parma ham, olives, cheese, and tomato sauce is pleasingly salty and almost buttery, accompanied by a Belgian beer made slightly sweeter as a result. Certainly Beijingers seem to think so – The Tree took home second place in the Beijinger 2014 Pizza Cup, narrowly beaten by Gung Ho! Pizza.

Longevity among Beijing eateries, especially those catering primarily to foreigners, is not common. But with this place going as strong as ever, there’s no reason why this Tree won’t continue to grow and grow.

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Email: danielkippwhittaker@thebeijinger.com
 

photos: Kipp Whittaker