As much as I admire the discipline and goodwill it takes to be a vegan, I love burgers, rib eye steaks and a million other meaty indulgences far too much to ever adopt such a laudably strict diet myself.
Yet if you’re also an unabashed carnivore like me, there’s one new Beijing restaurant that puts forth a worthy, mouthwateringly case for swearing off such unfriendly animal fare.
Named Root Pop, and opened by Glo Kitchen and Tribe mastermind Brandon Trowbridge, this Shuangjing newbie boasts burgers, hot dogs, nachos, and other American grub that’s savory, low-key, and creative enough to make you forget the menu is entirely vegan. You have Trowbridge to thank for that, telling us that he has fun finding outside-the-box substitutes for meat, cheese, and other ingredients to make the grub fully vegan while also comprising any scrumptiousness.
The burgers he’s created, for instance, sport patties made of lentils and walnuts, rather than the more standard tofu or bean bases, preferring the flavor and texture of this combination. The Bajaja burger (RMB 58) is testament to that quality, the walnuts and lentils pressed and mixed together in such a way that they don’t taste like meat, as if trying to insult one’s intelligence by fooling them, yet is still firm, hearty, and wholesome in its own unique way. Its pickled jalapeño and smashed avocado topping gave it a simmering aftertaste that rekindle your memories of balmy summer backyard barbecues. Its bun was self-assuredly firm, dodging the pitfall of a sloppy and flimsy mess occasionally endured elsewhere.
While it's by no means a massive meal, the relatively small burger is properly portioned for contentious vegan patrons. Hungrier customers should take advantage of Root Pop's great lunch deal: add RMB 30 to cost of your burger or sandwich for a side and non-alcoholic drink or coffee, while RMB 45 gets you two sides and the same price for a drink.
To that end, I rounded out my meal with an ambrosia salad (RMB 40) made of coconut, beet, pineapple, mint walnut, mixed greens, and ranch that had a crunchy, granola-ish texture and a sweet aftertaste courtesy of the coconut. Our second side of fries were thin-cut but not crunchy, instead having a firm cushiness to them. The topping of a potato and carrot-based cheese substitute sauce was also a real winner, proving flavorful, creamy, and indulgent enough to satisfy the biggest condiment devotees.
Other burgers on offer include the RMB 40 Animal Style, made with griddled onions, lettuce tomato, a mustard toasted bun, and cheese and Root Pop special sauces; the RMB 45 Aussie, featuring temper vegan bacon, roast beet, griddled pineapple, onion, and Vegemite; along with vegan hot dogs, sandwiches, and wraps (ranging between RMB 45-50). There's also a RMB 48 caesar salad, an RMB 45 nori taco salad, which includes black beans, seaweed, pico de gallo, pickled ginger, and a sesame miso dressing.
The restaurant's decor is designed not to distract from the colorful dishes, instead making them pop. Chalk that up to crisp white walls that serve like blank canvas for Trowbridge's creations. The ground floor is casual and airy, while a spiffier upstairs, with a long fine dining table, will soon be used for fancier private parties and more upscale menu events.
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Root Pop's minimalist interior is only interrupted by a few splashy paintings made by co-owner Kelly Chen, a vegan and old friend of Trowbridge's. Aside from being an artist, Chen also handled the venue's design, Trowbridge exclaiming that he's happy to have her onboard because, "I used to feel bad whenever we'd go out somewhere for Western comfort food, because there'd be so many options for me, and she could only have the same few things."
Based on the highlights of Root Pop's menu, other Beijing vegans that have long had similar gripes will find much to enjoy at this innovative new Shuangjing eatery.
Root Pop
Daily 11am-10pm. 3-22.22 International Art Plaza, Pingod, Baiziwan Lu (across from Bldg 3, Today Art Museum), Chaoyang District
朝阳区百子湾路苹果社区北区B座3号楼22号 （今日美术馆3号馆对面）
More stories by this author here.
Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
Photos courtesy of Root Pop
Since when is cheese considered vegan?
Sorry Starborn, I tried to make it clear a couple of times in the story that the chef uses vegan substituitions, before describing some of them (the potato and carrot-based cheese substitute sauce etc. in paragraph five). There might have been a better way for me to highlight that though, I'll keep that in mind while working on my next review.
Are you vegan yourself, btw?
