Local Gem: The Best Braised Beef in Town Is at Kiev Restaurant

Local Gem is an exploration of Beijing’s diverse palate. Get out of your comfort zone and try something new! To share your own neighborhood pride, please contact us via editor@thebeijinger.com

Outside of the Slavic countries, China might be home to the most restaurants from that region. Likewise, Beijing – the political center of China and a northern city not too terribly far from the Russian border – inevitably has some of the best Slavic restaurants in the country. And for Beijingers who were born before the new millennium, such restaurants were likely their first impression of (non-fast food) Western culinary culture. 

Admittedly, Slavic food may look rustic, but that doesn’t mean it lacks finesse. For a period of time, there was even a trend among Russia's nobility to emulate aspects of French culture such as their culinary techniques, but the tradition of a meaty, filling meal persisted, which is part of what made it a perfect fit for Chinese dining tables.

The most famous Russian restaurant in Beijing may be the Московa Ресторан restaurant, aka 老莫 lǎomò (Old Moscow) as a true Beijinger refers to it, which has appeared in several movies as a symbol of Beijing's bygone days. For me, however, it holds too much historic meaning and the interior is overwhelmingly solemn, making it a less-than-ideal spot for a relaxing dinner with friends.

As such, when I am craving some heavy comfort food that can be enjoyed in a friendly, laid back environment, Kiev Restaurant (基辅餐厅 jīfǔ cāntīng Ресторан Киевская Рycв), a Ukrainian restaurant named for the capital of that country, is my go-to.

Founded in 2000, this local gem is a somewhat obscure dot on Beijing's gourmet map. Less than a 10-minute walk from the Gongzhufen subway station (Line 1 & Line 10), the inconspicuous entrance leads to a stairwell flanked with photos of Soviet celebrities and topped off with a giant red flag bearing Vladimir Lenin's portrait, altogether creating the illusion that you stepped into a Soviet-era gastropub. The underground design cloaks the restaurant in an air of secrecy and preserves this little hideout from the erosion of time.

The first time I came to Kiev Restaurant was with my grandpa to celebrate his birthday, and what truly left a deep impression on me that night wasn’t the taste of the food (delicious though it was), but my grandpa's face as he watched the performers making their rounds. Singing along to their songs, my grandfather's delight was nothing short of infectious and though he passed away a few years ago, this will always be one of my fondest memories.

Now, onto the food. As one judges a Spanish restaurant by its paella or a Shanghaiese eatery by its soup dumplings, a Ukrainian restaurant may be judged by their beef stew. Served in a pot, the beef stew (RMB 67) ranks among the top in Beijing. The meat is tender and simmered in a rich vegetable gravy. What's more, it's topped with a crispy dough cap that not only keeps the pot's contents at an ideal, ready-to-eat temperature, but also adds another layer of texture to the dish.

For those who prefer a lighter meat option, the stuffed chicken thigh (RMB 76) is also a must-try. Braised and roasted to perfection, the golden-brown skin offers a delicious crunch to the juicy meat underneath. Other proteins include a roasted codfish, lamb chops, and pork sausages.

To be sure, meat isn't the only Slavic staple on offer, and their bread options such as the whole wheat and rye loaves are an exclusive treat rarely found outside of Slavic restaurants and bakeries. If the butter and cream are a bit too overwhelming, a bowl of borsch (RMB 28) and some Yalta rice (RMB 49) will surely refresh your taste buds and wake up your appetite with the right amount of acidity. The price of a meal for two is relatively affordable considering the portions, usually landing around RMB 150 per person – unless you happen to order the black caviar (RMB 399 for a small portion).

Currently, due to COVID-19, all performances have been put on hold which is truly a shame, but it also leaves more space for the customers and makes the spot a suitable choice for quiet conversation or a date. The restaurant has also temporarily been forced to limit their menu options, but you can check their delivery menu on Dianping before you go to see what dishes are currently available. 

Kiev Restaurant 基辅餐厅
Daily, 11.30am-9pm. No.13 Puhui South Avenue, Yuyuantan South Road, Haidian District. (68283482). 海淀区玉渊潭南路普惠南里13号

Read: Local Gem: Yunnan Food Doesn't Get Realer than La Roba

Images: Zeus Zou, Dianping