Over the years, Beijing has become increasingly spoiled for choice when it comes to pizza. Whether it's the no-fuss by-the-slice fixings of Pizza Saporita, the chewy moreishness of Bottega, or the caramelized crunch of Pizza Squared. And yet there's still space in the market for someone like The Pizza Show to turn up and provide something new.
The restaurant is the brainchild of the man behind popular Mexican chain Avocado Tree, Nemanja Maric, with help in the kitchen from the head chef of the now-deceased Mediterranean tapas restaurant and bar Sorí in The Crib. Situated in the basement level of Parkview Green, the minimalist and light space is more reminiscent of a food court than somewhere you'd hit up for a first date, but proof that it has nailed the fast-casual dining concept is evident from the bustling crowds of shoppers and workers from the nearby offices that it has attracted since day one.
The "show" for which the restaurant is named refers to the open-plan kitchen that encompasses the entire far back wall, allowing diners to see their selection go from raw dough to baked perfection in a matter of minutes. Once the venue is fully operational, it's here that diners will have the choice to make their own pizza from scratch, akin to how you'd build a sandwich at Subway (or a pizza at the California-based chain Blaze Pizza).
However, that's where comparisons to the bloated American sandwich store end because The Pizza Show is dedicated to using only the freshest ingredients, a fact that is apparent as soon as you lock eyes on the bright red, green, and white bases atop each pie. The dough itself is almost melt-in-your-mouth light and features a just-charred crust, leaving you happily full from a 10-inch serving rather than gasping for air.
Of the pre-designed options (between RMB 60-90), favorites include the white truffle cream and walnut pizza with dollops of peppy, deep-green basil sauce, the pistachio and pesto topped with generous layers of fresh ham, and the pepperoni for its simplicity, letting the piquant marinara do the heavy lifting. On each, cheese is used sparingly, allowing for a satisfyingly nutty flavor to break through alongside a creamy finish courtesy of a sprinkling of mild ricotta.
If we had one quibble, it would be that in some cases The Pizza Show's dedication to untainted flavors can at times hinder its own attempts. The veggie pizza, while loaded with chunks of eggplant, peppers, and zucchini, was bland in a way that even the slices of shallot and capers couldn't quite salvage. The side of meatballs suffered the same fate and for that reason, we at times found ourselves craving a grinding of black pepper to help boost the flavors. On the other hand, the deep-fried and crisp artichokes with sweet mustard sauce are not to be missed.
From its unassuming mall-based environment alone, you might expect The Pizza Show's wares to be rather ordinary, but the obvious care that has been taken here elevates them to be anything but. For that reason, its opening serves as a reminder that despite the plethora of options that the capital is now home to, there's still room for some new and exceptional pizza in Beijing.
The Pizza Show
Daily, 10am-10pm. B2, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地底下2层
READ: At Long Last, Taco Bell Comes to Satisfy Cravings in the Capital
Photos: Tom Arnstein
Tom, I have savaged some of your stuff in the past. But this article is a rarity for me: a restaurant review that makes one want to eat there. It actually dwells on the food. If that food is as good, I'll be overjoyed. Well, maybe just "joyed."
If that food is as good...
judging by the photos Imma nope right on out of trying. Dominoes FTW.
