Bellota Pursues Spanish Excellence in Beijing
Fun fact: I come from a family with some experience behind the counter of a bar! Here's what they have to say about the F&B trade: It is hard work, sometimes even thankless. Success can be darn elusive, but experience will shape your future odds greatly. And honestly, I can only agree with them after one too many visits to newly-fanged hotspots where I had an immediate hunch that business would slump once the hype waned.
Years after the end of Covid, and years into a revolving door of urban changes for Beijing, we keep bidding a forceful farewell to some of our best dining and wining. Just recently, Mosto had their farewell shift after 18 years in business. With this in mind, gratitude springs to mind when culinary entrepreneurs manage to stay on the map. Such is the story I am bringing you today, starring Spanish restaurant Bellota, which opened in late 2023 following the closure of beloved Niajo, of Nali Patio fame (RIP). Some two years later, it's high time to give the spotlight here to this remarkable group of professionals who are making their own strides in Beijing and beyond. September is bringing some exciting news to Bellota!
Earlier this year, Bellota owner Jeremy generously invited me to visit the restaurant, and I still salivate at the memories of the terrific feast that ensued. Bellota has no need for tales of grandeur because flashy innovations do not belong with some of the most solid Spanish fare I've sampled in town. Gulas (a surimi-based spin on baby eels and a uniquely Spanish thing) were delicious in their own right, not just because I was far from home. The pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus)? Finally, a Beijing restaurant honoring this dish comme il faut. The arròs negre (squid ink rice, often described as similar to paella) was simply superb.
However, the true treat was getting to see Jeremy and his crew in their element. The interaction between them and their confident, joyous disposition was their best credentials. Dear reader, I beg you, don't constrain yourself to a Sanlitun affair. Yes, Bellota is located in Shunyi, at the Pinnacle Plaza shopping complex, more specifically. It's still a mere Didi trip for us downtown dwellers, or if you go by subway (hop off at Exit D of China Int'l Exhibition Center), the remaining distance on foot will whet your appetite nicely. Now, without further ado, let's get to know Jeremy and his people.
Hi, Jeremy, I am thrilled to finally sit down with you! Bellota is actually circling its second anniversary. I feel like yours is a story where continuity and new beginning merge in rather brilliant ways.
Niajo opened in 2009 and gradually became one of the best exponents of modern Spanish cuisine in Beijing. Alejandro Sánchez, the owner, came armed with some significant family background in the F&B industry and his own expertise that he'd accrued throughout the years. Experience is crucial, to be sure, and we gained plenty under his wings. But most importantly, this experience was accentuated by his sheer passion and enthusiasm. At Niajo, Alejandro amassed a team of 20 employees, 19 of whom were Chinese. With him back in Spain, there came a realization for us that whatever came next, we wanted to stay together. I feel that's a defining foundation of sorts for Bellota, and I am very grateful for the support we've had along the way. Dear friends of mine helped us settle in our new location and gave me their insight on the many aspects of running a business from their own professional experience. And now, here we are, on this new endeavor.
At Niajo, you were the manager, but now you're the owner of Bellota. Did the switch come with a sharp learning curve?
For sure, I faced new challenges in my new role. When you're the actual owner of a business, responsibility is amped up to a new level. Your employees trust your vision, but they also depend on you. It bears repeating that I am so grateful to have my longtime team by my side, as well as the support I mentioned from friends. It really makes all the difference.
What would you say is your approach to Spanish cuisine?
We appreciate fusion, but we don't intend to veer too far into it, even if we hold a modern approach to Spanish cuisine. For us, it's all about focusing on a selection of representative flavors and dishes to master. If you're getting your first taste of Spanish gastronomy at Bellota, we hope to make it the first of many. And we're honored to offer to our Spanish customers the flavors they know and miss. Here, I think about our seasonal specials – our Roscón de Reyes (a Spanish sweet bread), a must for any Spanish Christmas. Premium ingredients are always part of the equation, as well as our own personal touch. At Bellota, we truly love what we do. We believe in this project and what we're bringing to the table.
You can hardly find a better source of motivation. The present is all locked in, so what's in store for Bellota?
Time will tell. Though our home turf will always be in Beijing, I will say we would love to take Bellota to Shanghai someday, too. All in due time. In the meantime, we'll keep up with our efforts and, if I may say so, we've got much to look forward to in our immediate future. This month – on Sep 20, to be more precise – Bellota will be in Spain! We'll take part in the finals of the Eighth Valencia World Paella Day!
Eek, exciting, indeed. Do tell us more, please!
Of course, I love a chance to delve into all things paella, our signature dish originating from Valencia, on the southeastern coast of Spain, a region with a fertile agricultural landscape that stands out for its excellent rice. Paella, once a humble meal for shepherds and peasants, is nowadays the most universal dish in Valencian cuisine. So, it's in this spirit that Valencia World Paella Day came to be in 2018. This year's edition is the most ambitious yet. Contestants from all over the world went through six semi-finals in Uruguay, Colombia, Japan, Bulgaria, Mexico and Puerto Rico, and now six chefs have made it to the grand finals scheduled for Sep 20. It'll be the culmination of a five-day immersive experience in Valencia, presenting these finalists with a series of events and visits delving into the culture of paella.
It is nothing short of an honor for Bellota to send our own chef, Cheng Xiaojie, to compete for China in these amazing finals. Though this is an acknowledgement of our hard work, we do not take for granted this chance to stand among the best in Valencia. We hope to showcase Bellota's expertise, and no matter the result of the competition, I am certain that Cheng will return to our stoves with plenty to share.
I agree with you. That's a huge accomplishment already. I know we're all rooting for Chef Cheng now!
I could talk all day about Cheng – his relentless focus and his dedication to not only mastering the techniques of Spanish cuisine but also embracing the unique philosophy behind it. Chef Cheng has remarkable respect for authentic flavors yet is also unafraid to innovate when the moment is right. He is tireless in the kitchen, always the first to arrive and the last to leave. His passion for cooking inspires us all; Cheng is the reason why every dish at Bellota carries not only skill but also heart.
This is truly fantastic, congratulations. There's no better testimony to your work than your own words. Okay, so we're ordering paella at Bellota for sure. And what else would the owner recommend?
Let's see … party of one? Then I'll focus on the tapas: pinchos (finger food presented on toothpicks), ham croquettes, a wedge of tuna empanada (baked pastry turnover), and you can't go wrong with a Spanish omelette. But if I am bringing over friends or family, then our paella needs to stand next to our Segovia-style roast suckling pig, or may I suggest gambas al ajillo (spicy, garlicky shrimp), Madrid-style callos (stewed tripe), the gulas and octopus that you loved, and of course our fine selection of cheeses paired with Iberian ham. I will say that a refreshed version of our menu is waiting for Chef Cheng to return from his Spanish trip. When the moment comes, we will be delighted to welcome everyone back to Bellota, where the best Spanish flavors always await.
Bellota
882 Pinnacle Plaza, Courtyard 2, Xinyuan Yi Lu, Konggang Jiedao, Shunyi District
顺义区·空港街道馨园一路2号院荣祥广场882号
Hours: 11am-10pm
Phone: 010 8048 2108
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Images: courtesy of Bellota
