Colombo in Chaoyang: Sri Lanka's First China Outpost, Cinnara, Is Here

It's not every day you encounter a cuisine that's entirely new to Beijing, let alone to the country as a whole. Cinnara — a name steeped in the aroma of the sweet cinnamon the nation is famous for — has opened in Chaowai SOHO, claiming the title of the first and only Sri Lankan restaurant in China.

We stopped by the bright dining room, which is adorned with traditional elephant carvings and other Sri Lankan iconography, for manager Don to give us the essentials.

When asked what three ingredients define Sri Lankan food, his answer was immediate: “Cinnamon, coconut and chili.” However, these are just a few of the unique flavors that make this underrepresented cuisine so distinctive. For those tired of predictable flavors, this is your new destination.

So, what's on the menu? You'll find plenty of seafood from this island nation. “We have three different kinds of crabs ... and three different flavors from three different areas of Sri Lanka,” Don says. “So, if you try three of these ... it's like you feel Sri Lanka.” The Black Curry Crab – seasoned with Sri Lankan black pepper – had a flavor profile quite unlike any curry I have tried before.

But the menu is by no means limited to seafood; it also features beef, lamb and a full page of vegetarian selections. The Chicken Curry, flavored with cinnamon, cardamom and fried caramelized onions, is another sure bet.

For those with less adventurous diners or picky kids at their table, the menu includes a solid range of familiar fare like Fish & Chips and Penne Alfredo.

Chinese diners will find a familiar dish in Kottu, a stir-fry of shredded roti that will resonate with anyone who loves the textural satisfaction of China's famous chaobing. Yet the dish stands apart with its distinct Sri Lankan spices.

Don points to three national staples that are the perfect accompaniment to the rich sauces present in most of the mains. Coconut Roti, starchy triangles with a hint of coconut, are great for dunking into any of Cinnara's curries (the true Sri Lankan way is to crumble them into the sauce to soak up all the flavor).

The Roast Pan (roasted bread) reminds me of the toast segments used to sop up the warm liquid yolks in a classic Eggs Benedict.

Then there are the Hoppers, bowl-shaped fermented pancakes with crispy edges and soft centers. They are engineered for pairing with almost any sauce and come across as truly one-of-a-kind. Order some, but be forewarned: These are usually only available at dinner due to the necessary fermentation time.

A visit to a Sri Lankan restaurant would be incomplete without sampling some of the island's legendary Ceylon tea, served hot or transformed into a refreshing iced version in strawberry or peach.

In a city of endless options, Cinnara offers a genuine first. It's a confident and welcome introduction to a cuisine most of us have only read about, proving there are still new culinary frontiers to cross without even exiting Beijing's Fourth Ring Road.

Cinnara
03015, 3/F,  Bldg A, Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District
朝阳门外大街乙6号朝外SOHO-A座三层03015
Hours: 111am-11pm
Phone: 136 9113 7921

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Images: courtesy of Cinnara