Hot Pot Nirvana: Tongue-Tingling Bliss Near the Temple

As we waited for a table, the smoke-and-spice infused air set my nostrils and the back of my throat tingling. Imagine a sauna where some scamp had dumped several spoonfuls of chili oil and peppers over the hot coals. In the finest traditions of hot pot and steam rooms, at least one portly gentleman was even undressed – from the waist up, thankfully.

Diners fill in their own order forms, so make sure you know how to read or ask for your favorite ingredients. As well as offering everything you’d expect, Kuanbandeng has a few specialties. Almost everyone orders the mala beef (麻辣牛肉), a plate of meat heavily marinated in a chilli dressing even before you add it to your broth. The bashu beef (巴蜀牛肉) is also popular. If you like innards, order the duck blood (鸭血) and intestine (鸭肠), secure in the knowledge that both come highly rated by Dianping.com users.

Law #1 of hot pot: There’s always one person at the table who insists on having the non-spicy broth. Make sure these anti-social types aren’t invited. Let them stay at home, boil the kettle up and pour it over some meat and vegetables. Kuanbandeng does cater to the spice-averse, but their trademark is a mala broth divided into nine sections. All the better for scooping razor-thin slices of lamb, slabs of tofu, spinach leaves and mushrooms out from those peppery depths.

After a few bites, expectation dissolved into satisfaction. The numbing mala sensation flared first around the lips, then my tongue tingled. And tingled some more. Within a minute, my mouth felt detached from the rest of my body in a moment of transcendence. It’s like what Buddhism is supposed to do for you. I picture him, Gautama, and wonder if he had some hot pot with him under that Bodhi tree.

Time to make use of that smooth, cooling sesame dip. I mixed in generous quantities of cilantro and crushed garlic for added depth. This process repeated itself several times over, with increasing peaks and valleys. Soon enough, I realize I’m fishing in an empty sea. It’s over.

Kuanbandeng has none of Gui Jie’s lantern-lit spectacle and nothing like the service of Haidilao. Just a robust broth, some interesting meat options, fresh food and an environment that makes it easy to have a great time.

Kuanbandeng Laodu Hot Pot Daily noon-4am. 88 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng District (6407 7754) 宽板凳老灶火锅, 东城区雍和宫大街
88号

By subway: 100m north of Beixinqiao station (Line 5)

This article originally appeared on page 35 in the March issue of the Beijinger.

Photos: Sui