Sneak Peek: Jeff Powell's Back Alley Bistro

Chef Jeff Powell, who helped put together popular menus from the likes of Element Fresh, Flamme and Gung Ho Pizza, opened the doors to his own restaurant, Back Alley Bistro, last week. He's still working out staffing and a few other details, but the food itself is fantastic.

Back Alley Bistro is located next door to Frost Nails, where he's been grilling up a mean burger for the past few months. It's a smart move, as the two venues will certainly benefit from some synergy. Frost's cocktails, for instance, can be ordered at Back Alley and whisked over for your enjoyment.

The place is cozy, with about 32 seats, and it's centered largely around Powell's personality and, more importantly, his food. It's not an exaggeration to say that our dinner there over the weekend had us giggling in delight. Before I describe it, I should point out that the restaurant is closed on Mondays, so if you're looking to head for a taste, you'll have to start on Tuesday.

The calamari lite fry (RMB 58) is in the running for the zenith of fried food, with delicious bits of squid languorously scattered across a whole grain mustard aioli. The wagyu steak (RMB 148) was great, but we were, surprisingly, more excited about the Chicken Under a Brick (RMB 128), which packed a suitcase full of flavor into each juicy bite.

For dessert, the apple crisp (RMB 38) wrapped up the meal splendidly with its well-tuned balance of each of the components.

I’m hoping to get back soon for lunch to try their sandwiches, especially the Back Alley Bistro sandwich (RMB 98), which beckons with its soft shell crab, pancetta and avocado.

Drinkers can look forward to a beer list that features brews specifically chosen to be paired with foods. Meanwhile, the food menu will be shifted regularly as Powell tweaks things and adjusts for the seasons.

The bistro's off to a great start, and we'll definitely be keeping an eye on it. So far, it looks set to be a rising star here.

Back Alley Bistro
Tues-Sunday, 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 55 Xingfucun Zhonglu (next door to Frost Nails in the alleyway across from April Gourmet), Chaoyang District (6417 5430)
朝阳区幸福村中路55

Photos: Josh Ong

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Had dinner last night at Back Alley Bistro. Excellent food very good service. We had the Ahi Tuna salad, scallop fishcakes, Ox-tail with mast potato, Steak Frites, and a side order of the brussell sprouts. Everything was really top quality. Oxtail was truly succulent, and the brussell sprouts were an unexpected delight.

Kind of a wacky place, drinks come from the nail saloon next door, the owners are a bit loud but charming nonetheless, all in all a great new edition to Beijing dining. Just hope they plan on changing the menu for the summer. It was all very heavy meaty food, great for winter but will soon want to eat lighter fare.