Another Sukhothai: Thai Chef Aims for a Piece of Heaven in Ju’er Hutong

Located just off the insanity that is Nanluogu Xiang is the baby of proud Malaysian chef, Belal. Belal – according to a heartfelt autobiography at the front of his own menu – came to Beijing in 2004, “hoping to create a piece of heaven on earth.” That junction between life as we know it and immortality is called Sukhothai.

Although it bears the same name as a handful of other restaurants in town, this restaurant has no connection to them. If it wasn’t for the food’s lack of kick to the nostrils, spice fans could delete all the other Sukhothais from their address book. But, if you don’t get too adventurous with your Scoville ratings, then Belal’s mild curries and stir-fries are the ticket. Just don’t expect a ton of salt and pepper.

While saturated with plump mushrooms, lemongrass and tender chunks of chicken, the coconut chicken soup (RMB 35) lacks the oomph in its broth the Thai gods would’ve surely wanted. Instead, for a welcome surge of flavor, try the peppermint beef (RMB 48), whose winning attribute is mint, not its scant dressing of chilies.

But what really begins to live up to Belal’s divine aspirations is the mango shrimp (RMB 52), a lightly sweet sauce with tender chunks of mango, crunchy green peppers and sugar snap peas. This dish could pass as an unconventional dessert to accompany the chocolate crepes (RMB 25) on offer. In fact, Belal's menu features a whole range of sweet and savory crepes, from banana and strawberry, to meat and vegetable, making for a quick, on-the-go carryout option if you live in the area. 

If you're dining in though, just make sure to ask them to bring out the crepes last, or risk missing out on that one element that could make or break a heavenly treat: warmth.

Sukhothai
Daily 11am-11pm. 41 Ju’er Hutong, Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District (8402 6940)
东城区南锣鼓巷菊儿胡同41号

Also try: Patara, Pak Pak

Photos: Mitchell Pe Masilun

Email: j.rapp@thebeijinger.com
Instagram: @jrapppp

More stories by this author here