Iron Bartender: Crafting Cocktails with Coriander

Three bar masters. Three “secret” ingredients. One judge. Would Beijing’s cocksure mixologists fumble when faced with an unusual condiment or unfamiliar fruit? Or can they concoct a drink to impress one tough taster? In the spirit of Iron Chef, we put our bartenders to the test by announcing a secret ingredient, giving them ten minutes to conceive of and create a mix, and finding out just how creative a cocktail can get.

The Contestants:

Karen Li Ambrocio, Palms L.A. Kitchen
Hailing from a town near Mexico City, Mexico, Karen took her bartending skills from school to Great Leap Brewing, Slow Boat, and Modernista before settling in Palms, where she is happy to whip up a sweet recommendation from the “secret menu.” On the real menu, a tamarind margarita makes a debut this month, which is buyone- get-one free during happy hour until 7pm.

Matthieu Torrano, Modernista
Matthieu proudly claims to be one of Modernista’s very first customers, and it wasn’t long after his visit before Modernista’s owners introduced him to the world of mixology. Now, he’s been manning the bar for six months, thus not-so-incidentally, his expertise lies with absinthe. If given the choice, he’d opt for a dry martini, and he’s not too shabby at working with Spam.

Richard Ammerman, Jing A
Richard is best known for his relationship with Beijing-bred craft beer, but he wasn’t always all about the hops. During his time at Tufts University, he did cocktails in his dorm room for his friends. Then, it was all about the fortified wine and Italian amari, but he hopes to put his mixing to the test in line with beer with some pointers from Bottle, Boot, and Cigar’s Doug Williams.

The Judge:

Warren Pang, Janes and Hooch
This isn’t Warren’s first competition, nor is it anywhere near his first bar. The Australian grew up with a family in the F&B industry, so when he came to Beijing, it was only natural that he became involved in the bar scene, notably helping to open d lounge before creating “the next niche of the niche..” Look for a food collaboration with Taco Bar this month.

Round 1. Secret ingredient: Coriander

Li Ambrocio: lime juice, lemon juice, simple syrup, Hendrick’s gin, dry Martini, ice, and coriander

Torrano: gin and ginger juice shaken with coriander, and soda water

Ammerman: Koornwyn Jenever, lemon and lime juice, sugar syrup, and spicy ginger beer muddled with coriander

Verdict: Warren enjoyed everyone’s first fragrant cocktails, but it was Richard’s balance of coriander and ginger – “best friends” of the spice world – that made a lasting impression.

Round 2. Secret ingredient: Pomegranate

Li Ambrocio: persimmon juice, passion fruit syrup, lemon juice, and Cointreau, garnished with dehydrated lemon rum

Torrano: coconut water, coconut syrup, shaken with fruit, and green chartreuse, garnished with a slice of persimmon

Ammerman: rum, rye, port, persimmon, cinnamon syrup, and lime juice, garnished with dehydrated lemon and cinnamon stick

Verdict: With the persimmon taste difficult to capture, Karen won the round for managing to bring out its flavor with a touch of passion fruit, while capturing a breezy texture and boozy flavor. 

Round 3. Secret ingredient: Persimmon

Li Ambrocio: crème de violette, pomegranate juice, vodka, and egg white, garnished with tea flower

Torrano: Campari, pomegranate juice, and lime juice

Ammerman: vodka, Aperol, ginger syrup, and pomegranate juice, topped with Hoegaarden

Verdict: Karen’s cocktail’s deep blue startled Warren, but didn’t sway him. As a Campari fan, he enjoyed Matthieu’s drink, while he dubbed Richard’s “very freaking good.”

For previous forays into mixing with the seemingly unmixable click here.

More stories by this author here.

Email: j.rapp@thebeijinger.com
Instagram: @jrapppp

Photos: Ken