Get Beautifully Woozy with Dongsi Sitiao Bar Wusi's Stiff Drinks

There’s homey, and then there’s Wusi. The Dongsi Sitiao bar feels like an old pal’s den or parlor that’s already familiar, even to patrons visiting for the first time. Chalk that welcoming atmosphere up to the venue’s wooden rafters, soft lighting, cherry shaded drapes and carpet, cushy stools and sofas, not to mention the snug floorspace.

That motif, unsurprisingly, extends to the cocktails. Imagine popping over to your friend’s mancave (if both you and he took your cues from Red Forman of That 70’s Show, TV’s most famous “cocktail dad”). That long lost buddy wouldn’t be stingy with his booze, now would he? Of course he’d mix you a stiff drink, and barely hide his chuckles as you stumbled out the door by night’s end. That’s exactly the disposition of Wusi bartender Wang “Kyle” Chongyu, whose cocktails aren’t for the faint of heart.

Case in point: the RMB 80 negroni, which has a more than generous splash (more like tidal wave) of Tanqueray gin. The uninitiated will wince at such potency, but aged barflies will appreciate how Wang deftly mixes the drink to a point where it pushes the limits of the term strong drink, while stopping just short of going overboard. The same can be said of the Godfather (also RMB 80), which is hugely infused with Disaronno to the point that the liqueur’s distinct almond flavor is unmistakable. When compared to lesser cocktail bars, which seem to be rationing their booze for fear of their patrons becoming – gasp – a wee bit tipsy, Wang’s lavish pouring style is especially refreshing in every sense of the word.

That’s not to say that Wang haphazardly sloshes his wares at will. He clearly knows what he’s doing, smoothly stepping behind the bar, whipping up each cocktail speedily, but not before carefully stirring and eyeing the mixture of each glass. When he reaches for liquers, he doesn't turn to the bar but instead a frigid icebox that coats the bottle with condensation and leaves the liquid steaming upon every pour, especially when it's exposed to the hot summer air. All of this quickly elevates the proceedings from homey visit to a prime mixologist moment. And if the aforementioned negroni or Godfather are too powerful for your liking, then sweeter and lighter alternatives are on hand, especially kiwi mojito (again, RMB 80), which is brisk enough to cool your system on a swelter summer day, but still measured enough to not knock you off your feet.

Still, at its core this is a bar best suited for seasoned drinkers. If you’re looking for a comfortable home away from home with a generous proprietor, than there’s no better place to get woozy than Wusi.

Wusi
Daily 8pm-late. 54 Dongsi Sitiao, Dongcheng District (186 0113 6684)
东城区东四四条54号

More stories by this author here.
Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
WeChat: 13263495040

Photos: Wang “Kyle” Chongyu