Tired of working for others, chef Nadia Meliani made plans to move from Beijing to somewhere on the African continent in order to start her own restaurant. Then, the coronavirus struck, and as awful as it has been, without it Beijing would now be without the fruit of Meliani’s plan B, which was to open Maison Lyonnaise in the capital’s embassy district.
This French eatery is Located in the building that formerly housed Caravan, though fans of that bar might hardly recognize it now as curtains now hide the back rooms, where wine bottles are displayed over private tables. The bathroom, too, is now hidden by a wall and door made entirely of wine boxes, on which scenes from Lyon as well as photos of four female chefs are displayed. The whole menu is inspired by the dishes created by these chefs, says Maiani, who studied her craft in Lyon.
But Lyonnaise cuisine is not quite like bistro grub of Parisian diners, though it’s equally nice to pair with a glass of red, nor do the dishes you’ll find at bouchons like Maison Lyonnaise resemble the lightness and delicacy that one might associate with haughty French restaurants. Rather, it’s all very much home-style cooking that embraces hardy meats, not least of which sausage and duck.
There are many good reasons to stop by for lunch or dinner, ranging from the welcoming hospitality to the unmistakable freshness of everything on the table from the appetizing bread to the desserts, but perhaps the best reason is to try something unexpected, whether it’s onion soup with the onion as a bowl or flaming cake.
For our part, we tried the Andouillette à la Moutarde (RMB 199), a sausage stuffed with innards and smothered with a mustard sauce whose taste is as impactful as the sausage itself – and you’ll certainly find yourself savoring it because this thing is on the chewy side.
Far easier to scarf down, however, was the Quennelles de Brochet (RMB 119), a seasoned mixture of creamed fish that is prepared with egg in a process much the same as one would begin to make a souffle. The result is a sort of gravy-covered loaf with the distinct flavor of fish, but also carrying a number of other tastes that were, to us at least, unfamiliar yet intriguing.
As the duck is a must-try, we also had Confit de Canard (RMB 89), a traditional pan fried duck leg that did not disappoint. It was served with a sausage and large, saucy lima beans that helped to offset the dryness of the bird.
Beyond the food, Meliani has done her best to emulate the feeling of a genuine bouchon that one might come across on the streets of Lyon, creating a homey environment and using the traditional yellow and red color scheme. The interior is decorated with plentiful photos of and artwork from Lyon, as well as wine bottle lighting and wooden signage. Though one can see out the window from the inside, the windows are tinted black – homage to a time when such Bouchons would serve as secret meeting places, allowing those inside to see who is coming to the restaurant before the visitor could peek inside.
There’s still plenty left on the menu to try, including a selection of desserts that have apparently proven popular among netizens, not least of which the Pain Perdu (RMB 58), oven roasted apples on pan-fried bread, topped with salted butter caramel. And, based on our experience so far, we’re sure to find ourselves back soon making our way through the whole of it – perhaps over the Chinese New Year, because they will remain open throughout the break, catering to the many Beijingers who will be staying in the city this year.
Maison Lyonnaise 法国里昂餐厅
44 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区日坛公园雅宝路
READ: Local Gem: The Restaurateur Who Turned Her Eatery Into Her Ideal Living Room
Images: Dianping, Joey Knotts, John Nuega
Far easier to scarf down, however, was the Quennelles de Brochet (RMB 119), a seasoned mixture of creamed fish that is prepared with egg in a process much the same as one would begin to make a souffle. The result is a sort of gravy-covered loaf with the distinct flavor of fish, but also carrying a number of other tastes that were, to us at least, unfamiliar yet intriguing.
Hard pass. I'd rather eat tuna mac 'n cheese.
