Wok This Way

In a cozy hutong off of Nanluogu Xiang, Chun Yi has been running Hutong Cuisine from her lovely courtyard for the past three years. A classically trained chef, Chun Yi holds small and intimate cooking classes for those looking to try their hand in the kitchen. Agenda's Jennifer Ying Lan recently sat down with her to talk about her experiences teaching others to cook in a city where eating is a serious business.

How long have you been in Beijing?
I was born in Guangdong, and moved to Beijing three years ago.

What gave you the idea to start Hutong Cuisine?
A long time ago, I had a friend who traveled to Thailand and saw a cooking class there. She mentioned to me that I should start a cooking class. After that, I traveled around China for a couple of years and learned all of the different cuisines. Then I moved to Beijing, and I thought it would be a good idea to start showing people how to cook.

How did you get the word out about your school and attract students?
I put an advertisement in [the then] that’s Beijing. The first month, I was very nervous because I didn’t know who would show up. Since then, the advertisement has just been word of mouth between friends. Many people who live in Beijing bring their guests to my classes.

Over the years, how have your students changed?
They have begun to know more about Chinese cuisine. At first, all they wanted to cook was Kung Pao Chicken. But now they show up and they want to cook a variety of dishes.

When did you start cooking?
My grandfather had a restaurant, so my parents used to wake up early to make dim sum. All of the kids helped the parents to make the dim sum every day, so I grew up cooking. Later, when I lived in Sichuan, I attended cooking school and learned more techniques there.

What is the format of your classes?
In each class, we learn how to make four different dishes. I design each lesson to focus on a specific type of skill. I also offer students a green market trip and a wok and knife skill lesson, but those are optional.

How are your students? Any funny stories?
One time, six men were here to learn and to celebrate one guy’s birthday. They showed up at my door, each carrying a box of beer. It was an interesting class…

What is the aim of your green market trips?
We talk about the differences in vegetables between northern and southern China. For example, there are less spicy vegetables in the north. In the north, the eggplant is thicker than in the south. I also show them the different types of Sichuan peppers.

You live in this cozy hutong. What are the best aspects of hutong culture?
Everything is great, except there is no bathroom. You can see the sun, the flowers and a pomegranate tree. My three-month old puppy, Dou Dou, keeps me company. During the evening classes, you can see the stars through the courtyard roof. It is very romantic.

What's your specialty dish?
I still like dishes with a more Cantonese flavor, and I enjoy steamed food.

What’s your advice for people who want to start cooking?
Take my classes, go home to practice, and then come back again. One potential issue is that Westerners like to cook huge portions. They use too much seasoning. If you cook large portions, it is so hard to control the flavor. I recommend they separate it and cook several different portions.

What’s special about Chinese cuisine?
People live for food in China and care for it very much. In other countries, food is for living. In China, living is for food.

Does Beijing have a special cuisine?
Beijing is more of a mix. It has flavors from all of the cuisines, but it is not very pure. They all changed a bit when they came to Beijing.
What are the most important spices for making Chinese cuisine?
Salt, sugar, soy sauce, starch, vinegar and sesame oil. If you like Sichuan food, then broad bean sauce and Sichuan peppers [are essential].

What sort of basic cooking equipment should people have?
A wok, a spatula and a knife. That’s what I have. If they want to be fancier, they can buy a steamer.

What do you hope that your students leave your class knowing?
I want them to remember how to cook.

Is that possible after one class?
It is possible. However, at home, most don’t have a gas stove. With electricity, it is hard to get the wok really hot. They also cook large portions, so it doesn’t always taste the same.

Describe a perfect Chinese meal.
I would prepare a type of fish, stir-fried chicken, a type of beef, a type of vegetable and then a soup.

And what types of food must people try while they are here in Beijing?
In Beijing, you can get different flavors, such as Sichuan, Yunnan, Guizhou, Hunan and so on. People should eat at as many places as possible to get a culinary tour of China. This way they’ll know more about Chinese cuisine.

Are you thinking of writing a cookbook?
I have never written a book before, so I am a little worried. Right now, I am just trying to gather recipes. I want it to be a skill-based book, rather than ingredients-based. I want there to be over 50 recipes; I have almost 40 right now.

Hutong Cuisine
3 Shajing Hutong, off Nanluogu Xiang,
Dongcheng District.
(8401 4788, 134 2631 7097, chef@hutongcuisine.com)
hutongcuisine.com
东城区南锣鼓巷沙井胡同

Interview by Jennifer Ying Lan

Taken from the May 21st-June 3rd edition of agenda, out around town now. To find out where to grab a copy, send an email to distribution@agendabeijing.com