2009 Aug 30 Service, Please: Gaby Alves at the top of her game
When she was growing up in Brazil, Gaby Alves was a pro volleyball player. Now she’s one of Beijing’s most valuable restaurateurs, winning the Beijinger’s Restaurant of the Year Award for four years straight with Alameda, then SALT. We recently challenged her to a little one-on-one.
the Beijinger: Are you a born winner?
Gaby Alves: I think I would say I’m a born competitor. Of course I want to win, but the most important part is the process of climbing to the top.
tbj: How did you get from volleyball to dining?
GA: My family is a volleyball family – my mum, my brothers and me. When I was nine, I was playing for the school. At 15, I was playing federation volleyball all over the country. You train four to five hours per day – it’s non-stop. I had to decide which road to take, and I chose business. I still play in Beijing, just for fun.
tbj: How competitive is the restaurant scene here?
GA: I believe Beijing is saturated with identical concepts. New restaurants open, they stay for a short period, and then close.
tbj: Which SALT dish is your “spike”?
GA: Our feijoada, a traditional Brazilian stew, is a very complex dish with an amazing flavor. People who eat it the first time say they’re never going to forget it. And I love our scallops with foie gras and saffron sauce.
tbj: How has your game plan changed over time?
GA: I try to be a bit more cautious about deals and contracts. With all the regulations here, you have to tread carefully.
tbj: Any banned substances in the kitchen?
GA: It’s easy to cheat and difficult to be honest. We play fair. No MSG.
tbj: Which cuisines would you give the red card?
GA: England has good chefs, but their style still comes too much from the French. American cuisine seems so focused on fast food. I think they have a lot to learn, more in terms of nutrition than cuisine.
tbj: If you could be world-famous in any sport …
GA: F1 racing driver. Why? Because I love speed.
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