Maki Making: The Art of Rolling Your Own

What’s the most fun you can have with 30 people, a tub of spicy tuna and a giant table bound in plastic-wrap? The mind boggles, but I’ll go with Hatsune's sushi-rolling school. Donning a black bandana for the third class hosted by the long-standing Japanese restaurant, I discovered, among other things, that with great sushi rice, three hours and a few glasses of Asahi beer, anyone can make maki worth eating.

The best thing about cooking schools is that someone else (usually more expert than you) does all the prep and the washing up, leaving you to do the fun bits and go home with the ill-conceived notion that being a chef is a bit of a blast. Hatsune owner Alan Wong leads the class, and in the case of the standard hosomaki he explains it's all about spreading the rice evenly (and thinly) over the nori sheet, going easy on the fillings and giving it a bit of a squeeze after rolling. Thwarted by greed, early attempts spill their innards like overstuffed sausages.

The inside-out rolls are a little easier once you know the technique (it involves lots of plastic wrap), but one of the trickiest aspects is working with the sticky rice - it's an exercise in tepid water management. Too little and it sticks to your hands (and clothes); too much and the final texture will suffer. Practice makes perfect of course, and by evening's end the table is a chaotic mess of condiments, sushi roll fillings, avocado skins, failed attempts and at least a couple of passable sushi rolls made by everyone present. And we're all very, very full.

The classes cost 300 RMB per person which includes a sushi kit to take home (rice, nori sheets, a bamboo roller, roll of plastic wrap), tasty nibbles like fried squid, edomame, tempura, and all the sushi rolls you can eat (plus more to take away and wow your friends). There are more classes coming in July, but before that Hatsune will host a charitable Beijing Foodies event in June with special dishes created for the occasion. In August the restaurant celebrates its 10th birthday, which, judging by previous parties should be a night (or nights) to remember.

For a much more thorough report on the night's activities (including recipes) click here. And if you were there, then you're probably here.