Kiko: Sushi on Nanluogu Xiang

Izakayas are the tapas bars of Japan, a tie-loosening mix of alcohol and eats in an atmosphere of buzz and banter. It’s fair to say nobody at Kiko has read the brief.

No welcome yell; instead, an easy listening CD on loop. Twitchy staff positioned around the room survey diners like embassy guards. It’s a pity because the food isn’t bad. Even with a recent Hatsune visit fresh in mind, I’d give Kiko’s California rolls (RMB 38) a creditable B-minus. And chicken cutlet curry with salad, pickles and miso soup (RMB 36) is a bargain lunch set I’d eat again in a pinch. The restaurant has a prime perch at the top end of Nanluogu Xiang, so where are all the diners?

Maybe it’s an unwarranted fear of uranium-enriched fish keeping customers away; steer clear of the seafood and grab some tempura (RMB 35) or a big heap of fried udon noodles (RMB 28) instead.

Standout dishes: California rolls, curry rice
Also try: Hatsune, Ichigo Ichie

Kiko 木子
Daily 10.30am-10pm. 3 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District (8402 0603)
东城区南锣鼓巷3号

Photos: Sui