Harbin: A Fine Line Between Pleasure and Pain

Did your mother ever used to tell you, like mine, that there are some things in life you won’t want to do, but you just have to do them anyway?

Going to Harbin, China, was never on the list but her words were ringing in my ears as we boarded the plane to the city’s world-famous Ice and Snow Festival during the recent Chinese New Year holiday.

When you're an expat on a limited stay in China with a tourist to-do list, Harbin sucks you in. Its festival begs the question: Are we missing out on something truly amazing? It is so close to Beijing, people tell you – it’s the only time you will ever get there. So go, you must and tick that box.

But as holiday destinations go, Harbin is hard work. It is certainly the toughest family holiday I’ve ever had.

Let’s face it, no one really wants to stand outside in minus 25 degrees Celsius, but you go there knowing you will be doing exactly that.

You marvel at the colossal ice structures, pondering their size and shape and the effort to build them, at the same time pondering why two layers of high-tech winter gloves are still not enough to keep the pain from your freezing fingertips.

You laugh at your kids speeding down the ice slides, while you are frozen to the same spot for what seems like an eternity as they wait their turn.

You consider the incredible smoothness of the ice bricks and pavers, while shuffling along hoping not to be spending the night in a Harbin hospital with a broken wrist.

And you are aghast at the taxi driver’s inflated price to take to you back to the hotel, but relieved when you climb in the back seat knowing it’s over and you are headed to a warm room and bed.

Yes, Harbin is hard work.

Back in Beijing, with the three extra layers of thermal clothing packed away, I have thought about whether I would recommend Harbin to others.

If I was asked this upon landing at Beijing Capital Airport, my answer would have been no, it’s too much hard work to be a holiday.

But in the comfort of my living room in Beijing, I have been able to really study our photos.

The beautifully illuminated ice castles and ice pagoda, the super-big ice slides, a giant Buddha worthy of the Lama Temple, carved completely from snow. When am I ever going to see this type of spectacle again?

And the smiling faces of our children, captured in between their barrage of questions and complaints. They tell a story of a great time had by all.

Then I think to that future moment back home in Australia, telling friends and family of our trip to the Ice and Snow Festival in Harbin.

“Where’s Harbin?” they will ask, which will be my cue to bring out our cheery photos as they ooh and aah at the huge ice sculptures. Yes, it was a fantastic holiday, I will say like a mother forgetting the pain of childbirth. So much fun.

Harbin is hard work but it is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. In my opinion, it is one worth having.

My recommendation? Be prepared for trying times, but go ahead. Tick that box.

Flight: RMB 1,900 (roundtrip from Beijing to Harbin with China Southern)
Entry to the Ice and Snow Festival: RMB 330, RMB 160 (children)

Other things to do in Harbin
The Sun Island International Snow Sculpture Art Expo
Polarland
Siberian Tiger Park

Photos: Chinatravel.net (top), Deborah Cooper