Back for More: Ribs Meet Lobster at Grange Grill

To say that Grange Grill offers generous helpings of meat is to understate matters. The steakhouse’s self-described “big guns” are The Tomahawk (RMB 1,095+15%) and The Tomahawk Cowboy (RMB 1,495+15%), intended to be shared by two and three people, respectively. The massive arch of a rib curves down into a portion of beef that would be appropriate for a feast (or a famine, for that matter).

If you are looking to mix surf with your turf, look no further than the Grange’s newest signature main. The stockyard Australian beef ribs and a Canadian lobster (RMB 1,295+15%) arrive on a wooden cutting board that could hold a small sucking pig. The ribs, the size of a car phone from the early 1990s, seem oversized until you remember that cows are massive creatures. Donning a bib emblazoned with the words “grill thrills, seafood spills,” you tuck in. The meat separates with only the gentle pull of a fork – but delicious as it is, you must remind yourself to save space. After all, a whole lobster awaits. The lighter seafood is a welcome balance to the richness of the red meat.

Vegetables also help balance out all that protein. Apparently, gout is making a comeback, so heed this advice: Don’t leave the two pieces of charred corn uneaten. You can also eat your veggies in the form of floppy sweet potato fries, which – true to the meal’s dimensions – spill out over the edge of the porcelain cup.

“Bigger is better” also applies to the mustard selection. There are 17 to choose from; our favorites included cranberry & red wine, balsamic & coffee, Guinness & thyme and a grainy mustard with sun-dried tomatoes and rosemary. Spinach salad (RMB 115) adds some greenery for a well-rounded meal and the warm chorizo sausage accompanying it is a pleasant change from the usual spinach-bacon pairing.

Photos: Sui, sfgate.com