Joy City Plays Host to One of Beijing's Weirdest Dim Sum Eateries: Yi Long Xiao Que Xiang

If Tinker Bell were to serve you dim sum in Never Never Land, then it might very well look like Yi Long Xiao Que Xiang.

Although not situated in a magical land, far far away, but instead in more prosaic setting of Beijing's Joy City mall, the new branch of this Shanghai chain nevertheless features an odd decor: dangling wooden lattice, fake moss, wooden swings, and an overall faux garden vibe that fills the sunken floor area of the restaurant's interior. There's also, for no apparent reason, a teepee placed in the corner.

Most of the neighboring tables were fully occupied during this midweek lunch rush, indicating that this kitsch and faux-rustic ambiance looks to be a winner among local patrons.

How this all fits in with the dim sum menu has left me utterly stumped, but at least those eats impress somewhat more than the decor. We had to scan a QR code to get a wait number for a table, and once we were seated we scanned over the cutesy trio of pages on the folded menu.

The items on offer are listed bilingually, and are simply checked off before being handed back to the waitress. We opted for the "three special-flavored shrimp dumplings" (RMB 24), which arrived promptly in a steamer basket. The shrimp inside each dumpling was cushy and each just the right amount of salt and savory flavor, although it was the green seaweed casing that won out over the pink and sweet variety or the comparatively bland, white morsel. 

Other items on hand can round a decent meal out without breaking the bank, including a trio of premium shrimp dumplings and chicken soup for RMB 32, curry fish balls with rice noodles for RMB 22, steam pork ribs in bean sauce for RMB 25, and steamed tofu skin rolls stuffed with mushrooms for RMB 25.

Those bargain prices almost rival more established dim sum joints like Jin Ding Xuan, though that eatery's far superior flavors mean it won't have to worry about being usurped by Yi Long Xiao Que Xiang anytime soon. Factor in the unfortunate design choices at the Joy City branch of this restaurant, and it's clear that once the novelty wears off it will have to up its game to have greater success in the local dim sum scene.

Yi Long Xiao Que Xiang
Daily 10am-9pm. Unit 2, 6/F, Chaoyang Joy City, Chaoyang Beilu 101, Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝阳北路101号朝阳大悦城6层02

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Photos: Kyle Mullin, Yi Long Xiao Que Xiang