Back For More: Post-Renovations, Transit’s Upscale Take on Sichuan Cuisine Still Delights

Swanky Taikooli North used to play second fiddle to its more accessible relative to the south, but in 2017 a couple of popular new openings, including Restaurant Y and Baker & Spice, have started to draw in the crowds. However, one venue that has never had a problem tempting people toward Taikooli North is upscale Sichuan restaurant Transit, which has recently reopened after renovations with new interiors and a refreshed menu.

The secret to Transit’s success, to our minds at least, has always been the skillful way the team blends elements of East and West – East being, of course, the food and West being the decor and high-end service. Post-renovations, the interiors have more touches of the Orient, but details such as crystal glasses and imported marble tabletops keep the vibe firmly fine dining.

When sloppily done, Sichuan food can be deafeningly one-note, a never-ending onslaught of chilies and numbing peppercorns. While the heat still smolders at Transit, it is applied with a much more deft hand, drawing inspiration from Sichuan’s regional cuisines and even as far afield as Fujian province. Take the Zigong-style fava beans, for example, a dish inspired by the cooking of the salt mining region around the city of Zigong. There is barely any chili employed here; Transit's chef instead relies on the flavors of ginger and citrusy Sichuan pepper. More recognizable Sichuan dishes, such as koushuiji (mala spicy chicken) are rendered with equal aplomb, thanks to a judicious selection of ingredients. That aforementioned chicken is spicy enough to make your mouth water, as the dish’s Chinese name implies, but not so much that you’ll be constantly reaching for your water glass.

Don’t leave without stopping by the bar for a cocktail, where the Chinese influence has crept in as well. Try the Transit gin and tonic, which is mixed with a shot of huangjiu (yellow wine) and garnished with a dried, salted plum, which gives the drink a slightly savory edge. The bartender can also recommend aged huangjiu to pair with your meal instead of the more traditional red or white wine – just one of the many ways Transit stands out from the crowd.

Photos courtesy of Transit