Element Fresh Opens Its First Vintage Venue and Ups Its Dinner Game in Taikooli

In an effort to expand and recapture the hearts and minds of a class of Chinese diners increasingly knowledgeable and spoiled for choice when it comes to Western dining, as well as a concerted move to evolve past the health-centric fare that made it so popular among foreigners and locals alike in the first place, Element Fresh has launched their first Vintage Element Fresh in the capital.

The transformation of Element Fresh's Taikooli venue into a "Vintage" model – the second after the edition in Shanghai's equivalent shopping district of Sanlitun – marks a new direction for the 16-year-old chain and consists of an overhaul of the interior design as well as an expansive dinner and sharing-centric menu that is rolled out at 5.30pm every day.

The new design gravitates around what can probably be best described as Home Depot meets playful preschool; a simple wood trestle skirts the main dining area while disjointed and warm lights hang above. Above the walkways, wooden frames hover midair and are passed through by strips of LED strips guiding the way. The walls are decorated with (this is where the preschool part comes in) what look like woodblock prints of bikes in various colors and sizes as well as gravity-defying plants. Nothing special perhaps but it feels spacious even when bustling, which to be fair to Element Fresh is most of the time.

The menu is where the real changes lie, however, with a decidedly bulked-up mains section that goes from Mediterranean to Mexican, bone-in ribeye steak to ceviche salad. There's also a set for two, which allows you to choose one dish from a selection of two to three starters, pastas, main dishes, and desserts (RMB 468 including two glasses of red or white wine, or add RMB 100 for a bottle) or a steak dinner for four, including three starters, a salad or pasta, the menu's primo steak, and dessert (RMB 998 including a bottle of red, white, or sparkling wine and RMB 100 for an additional bottle).

From what we sampled, the dishes here are just what we've come to expect from Element Fresh: decently-sized servings made using fresh ingredients and prepared in a solid manner. The starter of seared carpaccio (RMB 99) was just that, with beautifully sliced and melt-in-your-mouth strips of beef topped with julienned vegetables, and a dash of salt, vinaigrette, and extra virgin olive oil – nothing that you'll remember forever but balanced in a way that will have you savoring each bite.

Likewise, the swordfish tacos (RMB 69 for two) may not be best tacos you'll find in Beijing but a combination of generous and tender chunks of fish, pineapple salsa, peri-peri, and Asian slaw means they'll disappear in a flash. Pair with the new scallop ceviche salad (RMB 129) for a splash of Pacific flavors: seared scallops mingle with avocado, mango, and hearts of palm, lightly tossed in a Hainan chili dressing.

As for the mains, the kitchen did not falter with one the trickier new items, the "Big Steak" (RMB 688, includes two sides and sauces), which arrived hulking and perfectly cooked to medium rare. A nice addition is the chimichurri sauce, a piquant alternative to your usual mushroom jus thanks to a blend of parsley, oregano, and garlic, and works perfectly with the charred outer layers of the meat.

With mains like these, the desserts need to be light. Luckily the kitchen has come equipped with what's dubbed a Tropical Panna Cotta Picasso (RMB 99): coconut milk and vanilla pannacotta spooned with mango glaze, cherry jam, and stars of avocado emulsion. Though the presentation needs a little more work so as to make the shapes less cut-out the creamy and sweet flavors here work well and won't leave you clutching at your sides.

Finally, the bartenders have also been kept busy, whipping up a number of craft cocktails (RMB 55-80) that won't soon steal you away from your favorite Sanlitun watering hole but make for a nice alternative for those looking to sip on something other than wine and beer.

Whether you're looking for a slap-up meal with colleagues or a quick bite before you head out into Sanlitun for drinks, Element Fresh's new evening menu is extensive enough to have all bases covered. Taking a cue from restaurants that have also made a move towards sharing-centric Western dining, most notably TRB's foray into casual European dining via Hulu across the way and China New World's rustic French offerings at F Bistronome, Vintage Element Fresh looks poised to flourish thanks to mid-range pricing (for Sanlitun) and its existing brand recognition among China's health-conscious diners.

Vintage Element Fresh
Sun-Thu 5.30-10pm, Fri-Sat 5.30-11pm. S8-31, Bldg 8, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District (6417 1318)
朝阳区三里屯路19号院三里屯Taikooli 3层

Photos. Tom Arnstein