A Heartwarming Taste of Hong Kong at Honest Kitchen, Grand Summit
Whenever the pace of Beijing life gets us down, we always head to Hong Kong-style restaurants. Why? Sitting in a crowded canteen surrounded by noisy, hungry people, watching the staff running around, steam rising from the cauldrons and occasional flames from the large woks from the kitchen ... all that boisterous activity would warm anyone's heart. And the affordable, hearty food helps too.
Honest Kitchen is a quintessential Hong Kong cha chaan teng ("tea restaurant"), located in the basement of Grand Summit. On the weekend we visited, the place was extremely busy, due to the farmers' market in the lobby. The decor is busy too, with good luck charms and the names of the dishes hanging on the doors and walls, and a dizzying array of knick-knacks.
The menu is bewildering too, dictionary-thick, with almost too many choices: curry meatballs, noodle soups, wontons, fried noodles, and stir-fried dishes, along with drinks, such as milk tea. We finally settled on the wonton noodle soup (RMB 32), or yuntun mian (云吞面), which is a traditional Cantonese favorite, the wontons stuffed with pork and shrimp fillings and served with thin noodles in clear chicken broth. The only seasoning in the soup was pepper, but leafy vegetables gave it a rich flavor. This is truly hearty food if ever we tasted it.
The fried turnip cake with XO sauce (RMB 28) was also impressive. It featured fried turnip cakes with crisp exteriors of shredded radish and rice flour. The accompaniment of stir-fried eggs with chopped scallions, chopped Jinhua ham, and chili powder brought some heat.
For dessert, try the popular pineapple bun (RMB 13). No, it doesn't contain any pineapple, it gets its name from its texture, reminiscent of the tropical fruit. Actually, it's made of egg, sugar, flour, and lard, and served with a block of cold butter. Honest Kitchen's was cut open with the butter already inside, to save any hassle. The texture was soft, while the exterior was sugary and crisp, and the salted butter balanced the flavor. It all worked perfectly with a cup of Hong Kong-style milk tea.
Thankfully, Honest Kitchen doesn't share Hong Kong's penchant for narrow tables or greasy, slippery floors. Instead, you'll find comfortable booths with round tables. But that aside, the restaurant's clatter and authentic food are as close as you can get to Hong Kong while remaining in Beijing,
Honest Kitchen
Daily 11am-9.30pm. B1, Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang Donglu, Chaoyang District (8531 5118)
港真茶餐厅：朝阳区东三环东方东路19号官舍南区B1层
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Photos: Tracy Wang