Pachapapi: Peruvian Restaurant Settles in the Thriving Xinyuanli

The globe-trotting Jinshang complex on Xinyuanli that houses Bottega, Q Mex Taqueria, and Boxing Cat Brewery has just got even more international with the addition of Peruvian restaurant Pachapapi. Its previous incarnation, pop-up concept Pachakutiq moved between several locations in Beijing, but the venture has now settled down in Jinshang with a new name and a vastly expanded menu.

Pachapapi wears its Peruvian heart on its sleeve, with decor inspired by Peruvian pop culture and screens showing food documentaries that offer a taste of the meal to come. An eye-catching display of band and festival posters, brought back from Peru by the owner, adds to the restaurant’s festive atmosphere, as does the growing roster of live music on weekends. Equally festive are the Pisco sours (RMB 68-78), available plain or with a variety of seasonal fruits (we rate the passion fruit version). You’ll want to sample them all but be warned; they pack more of a punch than their fruity flavor would suggest. Those in search of a longer drink may want to try the Chilcano (RMB 68-78), a popular Peruvian tipple of Pisco topped off with ginger beer. Both are sure to get you up and dancing when the music comes on.

The food menu at Pachapapi reflects Peru’s uniquely multicultural cuisine, which stems not only from the country’s diverse flora and fauna but also from its history of immigration and foreign influence. For example, a selection of sushi rolls and nigiri reflects the Japanese influence on Peruvian cuisine, a style of cooking known as Nikkei. The signature Pacha roll (RMB 78) features shrimp and avocado topped with a heaping mound of squid ceviche, an interesting twist on a familiar dish. Crunchy quinoa adds textural contrast and a distinctively Andean ingredient. Elsewhere on the menu, lomo saltado (RMB 108), a stir-fry of beef, onions, and tomatoes served with hand-cut French fries, derives from the Chifa tradition, a fusion of Cantonese and Peruvian cuisines. All the dishes come in substantial portions, meaning it’s best to approach the menu as a group.

Of course, it would be remiss to review a Peruvian restaurant without mentioning their ceviche. Pachapapi’s classic ceviche (RMB 98) is a stellar rendition, providing just the right balance of acidity and spice. The staff tell us they blended the juice of several different types of citrus to get exactly the right level of sourness.

Pachapapi
Daily 11.30am-2pm, 6-11pm (kitchen). Rm 105, 1/F, Jinshang, 20 Xinyuanlixi, Chaoyang District (6461 8968)
朝阳区新源里西20号金尚写字楼1层105室

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Photo: Anna Hartley Pellegrin, courtesy of Pachapapi