2010 Oct 25 A Michelin-Starred Week at Fratelli Fresh: Italian Chef Igor Visits Beijing
Beijinger is welcoming a rush of Michelin heat, stoked by top chefs serving haute delicacies ranging from French to Italian to Japanese. The most recent addition is now available at Fratelli Fresh in Shuangjing for the week (October 24-31) . From Piedmont Region, Michelin-Chef Igor Macchia is showcasing his humor with a menu that sounds Italian, looks Italian, but tastes innovative than traditional Italian fare.
My visit revealed the cappuccino di astice to not be coffee, but a cup of lobster gumbo disguised by milky foam and brown liquid. I was pleasantly surprised that seafood can prove just as good of an accompaniment to savory mini-croissants, which are usually enjoyed in the morning alongside coffee.
Agnello marinato al caffe, or pan-fried coffee-marinated lamb, was the dish that really brought on the caffeine. Pre-marinated in espresso for one whole day, lamb meat is supposed to be softened. However, I was disappointed to find it slightly overcooked, though the sweet corn ragout was at least spot-on.
Winningly, guanciale di bue, pure alle mele Verdi was Italy’s answer to braised ox-cheek. After 24 hours of braising, the tissue – which seemed well connected – was in fact broken down and soaked up with plenty of collagen-rich consommé. Therefore, the chunks of pure lean meat tasted even more tender and juicy than they looked. As an extra bonus, Tonka beans were evenly distributed in the apple mash, providing a mild sweet fragrance reminiscent of cinnamon and cloves that married well with the braised beef.
The dome-shaped chocolate mousse stuffed with rich orange-flavored custard was satisfying, but the most refreshing ending belongs to wasabi ice cream, whose wild temper was well tamed by fresh asparagus shreds and savory buttery crumbles.
Besides a la carte menu, the degustation set menu (RMB 488) for 5 courses (monk fish, squid and prawns, Piedmont cheese risotto, braised beef cheek and hazelnut semifreddo) is available as well.
Fratelli Fresh. Daily 10.30am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm. 1/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5863 8203) 朝阳区朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店1层
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CORRECTION: The following article appears exactly as printed in the Beijinger's November issue. Otaku's management has since pointed out that Otaku should not be linked with Izaka-Ya and Jazz-Ya as part of a "family" of venues, as our article implies. We apologize for any offense caused.
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