BJ Burger Wars: Village Cafe Vs. Scarlett

Next into our ketchup-stained ring of bloody beef on beef action, it’s two of Beijing’s hippest hotels: The Opposite House’s all-day dining restaurant Village Café versus Hotel G’s wine-bar-cum-restaurant, Scarlett. Neither are specialists, with only one beef burger on their menus (though Scarlett in its previous incarnation was, it must be said). Both hotels have around 100 rooms and are considered to be the best of their class, but The Opposite House is in a higher price bracket. So let’s get this over with… it ain’t over ’til it’s over, etc.

In the red corner: Burger with ‘the works’, Village Cafe. RMB 85.

The brief. Eek, what a giant plate! Served open, I’m immediately drawn to two elements: the wobbly, sunny-side-up fried egg on the patty and the thick-cut beetroot. Then it clicks – The Opposite House GM is an Aussie, so when a burger comes with ‘the works’ that means egg and beetroot, as is the Antipodean way.

The bite. For the sake of fairness (and because, in my opinion, a fried egg doesn’t belong in a burger), I removed it … but left the bacon – hey, I’m human. First thing: lovely, buttery bun, well toasted, cutting into really unctuous American cheese with a bit of flavor, then a very satisfying mouthful of beef.

The beef. Nice char on the patty and tastes fresh and beefy, though could use a touch more seasoning and maybe a bit more fat in the mix for succulence.

The bits. Red onion, some nice leaves (and not too much of either), bacon and wedges of teeth-staining beetroot. Best bit? A side dish of barbecue sauce that tastes exactly like McDonald’s variety. This is a noble thing; McDonald’s BBQ one of the best dips devised by man.

Harmonious society. Nice feel in the hand, and without the egg it holds together admirably with no escaping yolk running down your wrists.

Fries? Included. Giant, skin-on French fries. They look and taste the bomb.

Next…

In the blue corner: number one, Scarlett. RMB 128

The brief. A distinguished sandwich with bistro chic written into its meaty DNA. Tall, brioche-styled bun, fries in a cup on the side. Served open with a generous brick of slowly oozing gorgonzola and a criss-cross of bacon. Who wouldn’t want this? Well, vegetarians, I suppose. It’s only cheapened slightly by the iceberg lettuce on the side, the ‘Ford Mondeo’ of salad leaves.

The bite. The puffy, brioche-style bun is soft and slightly spongy, but you soon hit a great wall of beef punctuated by stinky cheese and fatty bacon. There are big, big flavors here.

The beef. Sirloin beef patty, very juicy, very thick – with a satisfying char. Not quite the beef hit of others in town, but very respectable with a high quality sort of taste and texture. And like Village Cafe, definitely needs more seasoning.

The bits. A melting cube of tangy gorgonzola cheese, generous streaks of crispy bacon, just enough sticky, caramelized onions, arugula (nice touch actually), tiny bit of thousand island sauce, and – on the side – gherkins, tomato and iceberg lettuce of which I only added the gherkins. So there.

Harmonious society. Yes indeed. For such a tower of power, it’s neat and self-contained, and maintains its integrity to the last bite.

Fries? Included. Grade ‘A’ potato sticks, crispy, non-greasy, delish.

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This was a very tough one to call. Price-wise, Village Café wins hands down, which is really impressive considering where it is. Actually, Village Café is, I think, a somewhat underrated dining spot. Great food, very fair prices. Try the churros. Anyway, for looks alone, Scarlett takes it. Presentation just that bit more stylish. As for taste? If you take away the gorgonzola, bacon, egg, beetroot, it’s very close. Good beef, good bread, GREAT fries (too often overlooked). I’d call it a draw. A few days on, I have fonder memories of the Scarlett experience, and, at the end of the day, it’s got to come down to gut-feeling, right?

Verdict: Scarlett wins, but this one went to sudden death penalties

Next time: Battle of the Beijing granddaddies: Paul’s Steak & Eggs Vs Grandma’s Kitchen (unless, like this one, we do two totally different places instead). In the mean time, keep your mouth watering by reviewing our previous burger battles ...

Heat 1: The Box Versus Vineyard Cafe

Heat 2: Union Bar & Grille Versus Flamme

Heat 3: First Floor Versus Luga's

Heat 4: Let's Burger Versus Blue Frog

* All opinions expressed are those of an Englishman who once went to In-&-Out in LA (he didn’t even know about the secret menu, hah) and now has the gall to write this stuff.