This is the end*. Beijing burgers no. 23 and 24. It’s been a wild ride of juicy highs and gristly lows. We’ve saved the biggest challenge until last: hauling my ever more flabby can all the way out to Wudaokou. For your info, 40 RMB cab fare from Gulou. Lush is as I remember it, only a bit more expensive. Customers are furiously scribbling on flash cards. Everyone else sounds like they’re from the cast of High School Musical. La Bamba, well it wasn't our first choice, but Helen's doesn't open for lunch. Good old, sticky La Bamba. Yes, they have a burger. Yikes.

*Actually it’s not really the end, oh no – see below.

In the red corner: Original Lush Burger, Lush. RMB 50

The brief. I munched a burger here in 2009 but this is a different beast. Striking, flatbread type bun, lots of long, gooey grilled onions spilling out, and even a little flag. Got to say I’m impressed by the look. Very original.

The bite. Bread is softer than expected with a pleasant neutral taste, offset by the sweet ‘n tangy strings of slow-cooked red onion, then a thick, spicy patty.

The beef. Beef is spiked with chilli and it gives the patty extra flavor. I reckon less time on the grill would make the whole juicier, but not a bad effort.

The bits. You can add extra free toppings including gherkins and grilled onions. I wanted to add the lot, but there was confusion and I didn’t get the promised lettuce, tomato and garlic mayo. In retrospect I definitely digged my onion-y, paired down sandwich.

Harmonious society. Yes, although with more toppings it might have been a slippery beast to handle.

Fries? Run o’ the mill. Does a job.

Next…

In the blue corner: Beef burger, La Bamba, RMB 22

The brief. Helen’s Café was our first choice but alas, it doesn’t open up weekday lunchtimes. Then agagin, La Bamba has made a career of being the reliable standby. And as a plate of cheap food, it doesn't look too bad. There's even a spring of parsley.

The bite. Soft, soft, soft. Airy bun, thin patty like McDonald's only mushier.

The beef. Squidgy thin patty that crumbles away to mincemeat. Has a UK festival burger van quality. Which for those unfamiliar with this, isn't really a good thing.

The bits. Tomato slice, lettuce leaf, onion, nice and fresh. Slice of white processed cheese.

Harmonious society. The patty has less cohesion than Reed Richards of the Fantastic Four.

Fries? Golden but greasy, and a little dense.

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The Lush burger proves why this Wu institution continues to reign supreme in student land. It was a struggle to stop eating at half (my new bikini diet policy). Would have liked to try it with the works but even with just grilled onions and gherkins it was a decent eat, and I applaud the original approach. La Bamba, well. Really cheap. Which counts for something. But just a wee bit nasty.

Verdict: Lush A, La Bamba C-

Next: I'm off to fat camp for August, but my colleagues at TBJ will be getting busy with something approaching a burger World Cup! In the mean time, bone up on your burger knowledge by reviewing all of the previous matchups:

Heat 1: The Box Versus Vineyard Cafe
Heat 2: Union Bar & Grille Versus Flamme
Heat 3: First Floor Versus Luga's
Heat 4: Let's Burger Versus Blue Frog
Heat 5: Village Cafe Versus Scarlett
Heat 6: Grandma's Kitchen Versus Paul's Steak & Eggs
Heat 7: Pete's Tex-Mex Versus Big Boss Fish & Chips
Heat 8: Home Plate Versus Hollywood
Heat 9: Kiosk Versus Rumi
Heat 10: Fatburger Versus Burger King
Heat 11: Lily's American Diner Versus American Cafe