2011 Jul 30 Easy Izakaya: Sanma No Aji
New Japanese restaurants are a trending topic in Gulou lately. Suzuki is cool and cheap, but the food is hit-and-miss. Kiko needs customers like a whale needs Greenpeace. And as for Yoshi Izakaya, that was an insult to sticky rice grains everywhere.
This place is the first Gulou Japanese that feels right as soon as you walk in.
Lots of warm wood textures and dim lighting, a contented hum of chatter, and a black-shirted hipster boss who shows you personally to your table.
The menu is cookie-cutter izakaya fare: meaty things on sticks, barbecued fish, steamy bowls of ramen and udon.
Generous skewers of yakitori chicken (RMB 4) were tender, but needed more sticky sauce. A whole grilled mackerel (RMB 28) was nicely seasoned, flaky and tasty, but just a shade overdone.
The udon noodles (RMB 18) had a deliciously textured bite, but the soup lacked finesse. Similarly, the ramen (RMB 24) had some fine constituents, including melt-in-the-mouth pork, but the broth was heavy-handed and imbalanced.
The cold dishes we tried are best forgotten – but it’s not my job to forget. The lowlights included a mockingly tiny dollop of mashed potato (RMB 8) and chunks of conch in a viscous tomato liquid (RMB 12) that tasted like it came from a can.
The evening was rescued with a pair of perfectly cooked skewered shrimp (RMB 12 for two). And, despite the wayward cooking, the boss couldn’t have been more attentive or accommodating. This place certainly has heart (and customers) on top of good decor, tableware, service, prices and atmosphere. It’s no Suzumei yet, but a promising start.
Standout dishes: Skewered whole shrimp, udon noodles
Also try: Suzumei, Tori Tei
Sanma No Aji 秋刀鱼之味
Daily noon-11am-11.30pm. 70 Beiluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District (6407 8336)
东城区北锣鼓巷70号
Photos: Ron Wu
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