Back For More: Najia Xiaoguan

"Back for More” is a regular magazine column in which we revisit old favorites.

Say what you will about the Manchus, but dang, they can run a restaurant. From the orderly queuing system (with complimentary tea and snacks) to the photo cards on the table introducing the servers, Najia Xiaoguan is among the slickest operations in town. But – and this is the clincher – it’s relaxing and comfortable. Lighting is subtle, chairs are huge and our fuwuyuan even found us an ice bucket for our well-priced bottle of Louis Latour Chardonnay. But the main reason that folk queue up nightly is the affordable, meaty Imperial fare.

Pot braised venison (RMB 78) is the signature, served in a mini ceramic jar. The menu says it “invigorates the spleen” – the good news is it gives your taste buds a decent workout too. “Salty duck” (RMB 28), thin shreds of smoky meat layered into a mound, is surely one of the tastiest non-kaoya duck dishes in Beijing, and the “red-braised pork” (RMB 98) was so unctuous we had to ask for a spoon.

For a birthday bash or other celebration, Najia Xiaoguan is a royal treat. Just book ahead or you’ll be queuing with the commoners.

Also try: Mei Wei Zhen, Red Capital Club

Najia Xiaoguan Daily 11.30am-10pm. 10 Yonganli (south of the LG Twin Towers), Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (6567 3663) 朝阳区建国门外大街永安里10号(双子座大厦南侧)

Click here to see the December issue of the Beijinger in full.

Photo: Tom O'Malley