Gastronerd: How One Man Combines Food, Science and Literature
If you’ve ever wondered what’s happening at the molecular level as a hunk of parmesan ages, the New York Times’ “Curious Cook” Harold McGee is your man. Here, he gives us his take:
On beans, beans, the musical fruit
When I told a group of my friends and fellow teachers that I was thinking of writing a book about the science of cooking, one of them – who came from New Orleans and was irrepressible – said he had an urgent question in this area, namely, why did his favorite red beans and rice make him so uncomfortable? And would a different bean give him less gas? This was shortly after Blazing Saddles was released and the bean scene was fresh in all our minds. We all had a good laugh, but then a few days later I went to the science library to see if I could find an answer. I did, and this helped me realize that this projected book could be both informative and fun.
On his literature background
I think it makes me more interested in the history of foods and cooking, and the roles that they have played in the way people think about and make sense of their lives. My doctoral dissertation was titled “John Keats and the Progress of Taste,” and looked at aesthetic taste in this way. So I’ve just shifted to sensory taste.
On the wonders of food science
My single favorite insight is into the caramelization of sugar. You start with a single molecule, sucrose, which has no color or aroma, and simply add energy in the form of heat. In a few minutes you have caramel, which is sucrose transformed into hundreds of new molecules, some sweet, some sour, some bitter, some aromatic, some colored. It’s the starkest example of the alchemy of cooking, and of its complexity.
On looking forward to debunking MSG’s negative effects
I am indeed thrilled to have the opportunity to put myself at the mercy of Chinese chefs in China. And I have no fear of any adverse consequences apart from eating too much and gaining weight!
On what he just had for dinner
Confit duck leg, a puree of celery root and apples, and a salad of arugula from my garden.
On the curiosity contest
George and the cat may well be as or more curious than I am, but I’m pretty sure I have a longer attention span and figure more things out!
Step into McGee’s lab at the Capital M Literary Festival on Feb 25.
Tickets can be purchased online at mypiao.com or in person at Capital M. Check out Capital M's website for a full schedule and author bios.
Click here to see the February issue of the Beijinger in full.
Photo courtesy of Harold McGee
