Back For More: Cafe de la Poste

"Back for More” is a regular magazine column in which we revisit old favorites.

This resolutely mid-range eatery manages both an easy welcome and, for regulars, the close-knit vibe of a small-town tabac. Plenty of folks come to Cafe de la Poste just for booze, bonhomie, and as the night rolls on, a teary-eyed sing-song. If you can’t be moved to join in, think of it as free entertainment with dinner. Throw in a spot of dancing – lively enough to have broken 20 tables since the restaurant opened in 2006, according to owner Christophe.

The kitchen turns out simple French bistro fare made with quality ingredients (Christophe has a hand in Boucherie Michel and Chez Gerard). The hot, melting goat cheese with honey and rosemary served on crusty French bread (RMB 56) is a must-order.

Steak tartare au couteau (RMB 88) is the choice for those who like their beef beyond bleu. The “T-Rex” beef (RMB 248) is best tackled by two carnivores. For afters, the chocolate fondant cake (RMB 36) has a dark molten core. There is also the “unpasteurized milk cheese board” (RMB 138) – pair it with one of the French wines chalked up daily on a board. Or you can order the house plonk by the carafe. Go easy, though, or the restaurant’s ayi might be turfing you out in the morning.

Standout dishes: Steak tartare au couteau, goat cheese with honey and rosemary

Also try: Le Little Saigon, Le Petit Gourmand

Cafe de la Poste 云游驿 Daily noon-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight. 58 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng District (6402 7047) 东城区雍和宫大街58号

Click here to see the March issue of the Beijinger in full.

Photo:Tom O.Malley