Mercante: Home-style Italian in the Hutongs

For many of you, Mercante will be a dream come true: the one where you’re ambling down an ancient hutong and chance upon a softly lit restaurant serving comforting Italian cuisine.

With just a couple dozen seats, a meal at this restaurant feels like dinner at a friend’s house – a friend with an easy manner, impeccable taste and mad kitchen skills. We started with three bruschetta (RMB 38). Toppings of fresh ricotta, olive pate and a red and yellow pepper sauce were pleasant, but we wished the homemade bread had been toasted. If you’re on a budget, skip straight to pasta and mains.

The chef is from Bologna, so expectations ran high for the tagliatelle with bolognese ragú (RMB58). Homey flavors warmed both heart and belly, but we yearned for a larger portion. The tender organic beef fillet accompanied by a baked corn pie and small onions (RMB 128) stood out as an exceptional deal. The salmon fillet (RMB 98) was also good value, with a flaky skin that gave way to ruby hunks of flesh.

As for dessert, panna cotta with a raspberry and balsamic vinegar sauce (RMB 36) shone among the three choices – there’s also tiramisu (RMB 36) and a rice cake (RMB 42). The sweet-toothed among you can try all three for RMB 58.

We had the place mostly to ourselves, so it remains to be seen how the kitchen’s slow-food stylings will stand up to a full house. Clear your schedule and get a taste before there’s a line outside every night.

Standout dishes: Organic beef fillet, panna cotta

Also try: Sureño, Alio Olio

Mercante 商贾意大利餐厅 Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng District (8402 5098) 东城区方砖厂胡同4号

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Photos: Judy Zhou