Nova's: Say No to the Fries

Offering only hotdogs and french fries, Nova's goes for the simple approach. But when they miss the mark on half of it, there's not much else there to buoy an otherwise failing grade. No other hot dog joint in Beijing offers as trimmed down a menu as this Nanluogu Xiang eatery – and if executed well, it could be a hit. With just hot dogs (regular and chili cheese) and six choices for french fries, this sounds like the best late-night drunk option since Irish burger joints started serving up greasy burgers and fries topped with all manner of artery-clogging goop. Unfortunately, Nova's fails to deliver the goods.

Their hot dog is a standard packaged wiener, so not much can go wrong there. The fact that the dog comes served on a bed of lettuce may have traditionalists cringing, but a corner table includes the standard fixings for a no-frills bite. Just beware the less-traditional condiments: Dijonnaise and vinegar might spoil that hand-held snack.

Unfortunately, the fries, advertised as "hand-cut," can't be salvaged by any toppings. Whatever is happening in the kitchen can not be correct. There is no crunch, no crisp and no salted coating. What gets served in the mini-bucket are soggy, non-fried wedges that taste of just the musty skin. A dollop of sour cream, some colorful peppers and even a sprinkling of bacon don’t make these fries edible, probably not even for a 2am snack to help soak up too much booze.

Nova's. Daily 10am-11pm. 17 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District (8404 0378) 东城区南锣鼓巷17号

By subway: 1.2km west of Beixinqiao stop (Line 5)

Photos: Lauren McCarthy