Otis-erie: Uncle Otis Now Roasting Chickens at Xingfucun

West Sanlitun is about to get heaps more exciting with the arrival of two restaurants from Kris Ryan of Saddle Cantina and Rickshaw infamy. Uncle Otis, a casual rotisserie chicken joint, soft-opened on Wednesday, and The Big Smoke Bistro is set to fire up the barbecues for a reservation-only opening on Friday.

The Xingfucun area centered around the April Gourmet got a nice shot in the arm last year with Jeff Powell's surprise hit Frost Nails. Ryan's new American-style projects should ram up another draw for the block. As if that's not enough, Powell's also got a bistrot in the works next door to his bar-cum-nail-salon.

We made it out to try avuncular Otis's chicken on opening night. I've got a soft spot for rotisserie chicken (Costco, anyone?), and Uncle Otis's version hit that spot with all the pleasurable force of a double-rainbow claw hammer. That is to say, it was quite good. I'm planning on seeing a lot more of Uncle Otis than any of my real uncles.

We also sampled some of the sides: mac and cheese, creamed spinach, yellow rice and a root vegetable mash. The portions were on the small side for the price (RMB 15-25), but the flavors did get along well with the chicken. The vegetable mash in particular had a sweet edge that complemented the savoriness of the chicken and the other sides.

A selection of nine different sauces to go with the chicken made for a fun mix-and-match experience. Our favorites so far were the roasted tomato and the gravy.

As far as service goes, staff had the usual case of opening jitters, but, given Ryan's experience, I'm confident that they'll settle into their roost quickly. No need to call "fowl" just yet.

Uncle Otis is meant to be a takeout joint, so seats are few here, with a small counter inside and roughly 20 seats outside. They're planning to get a delivery service up and running in a couple weeks, so any of you who are too chicken to leave the house will still be able to get in on this poultry action.

Speaking of which, a whole chicken (available in cajun spicy or natural flavors) runs RMB 78. Half chickens cost RMB 56, or you can choose dark (RMB 27) or white (RMB 30) quarters.

I got an early peek at The Big Smoke, but didn't get a chance to try their food. The menu sounds like it will mostly lean toward the barbecue side, which is just fine by me. Jim "Beijing" Boyce sounded pleased with the short ribs and seared tuna he tried there earlier this week. Just looking at the asado grill where they're planning on roasting suckling pig had my mouth watering something fierce.

I like that the space has been broken up into rooms with different purposes branching off a hallway. They've got a bar, a lounge, dining rooms, a private room with a long dining table, a workspace for laptop toters and a café, which will eventually be open for breakfast.

If you want to be one of the first to try these oversize fumes, give them a call over at 6416 5195 to book a table for Friday's opening.

Keep an eye out for full reviews in an upcoming issue of the Beijinger or here on the blog.

Uncle Otis / The Big Smoke Bistro
Lee World Building (down the alley from Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼

Uncle Otis delivery (starting early August): 6416 2683
The Big Smoke Bistro reservations: 6416 5195

By subway: 1.2km northeast of Dongsishitiao stop (Line 2)

Photos: Josh Ong