Speakeasy Street: Janes and Hooch Shakes Up Sanlitun

The dilemma: Was I in the mood for bourbon or Aperol (typically mixed with gin, personally)? As I slid onto the bar stool in the darkened, gothic-esque space at Janes and Hooch and had a look over the booze-and-girls-filled menu, my choice was made for me. Paper Planes, featuring the two liquors, was the unexpected answer in an unfamiliar drink.

Cheekily served with a miniature flyer clipped to the rim of the glass, the drink was a delicious balance between warming spice and fruity bitterness plus sweetness from Amaro and tartness from lemon. The quality of the drink was never in question as the two fellas behind the joint have already proved their mettle with Apothecary, Bar Veloce and d lounge, but the new find highlighted exactly what this new bar is for.

The short drinks list includes less-known tipples (RMB 70-80) such as the Boulevardier, the Negroni's whiskey-laden sibling, which made a New York resurgence last year and Paper Planes, a circa-2008 retro-style concoction. Standards such as Sazerac and Old-Fashioned don’t make an appearance but can be ordered of the highly-capable barstaff. Neon drinks and shooters are prohibited, number 2 on their sort-of tongue-in-cheek list of rules.

Curmudgeons may grumble that Beijing doesn't need another cocktail bar, but this latest speakeasy nod to a classier time well proves its worth.

Also try: Twilight, Mai

Janes and Hooch Mon-Sun 7pm-2am. Courtyard 4, Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6503 2757) 朝阳区南三里屯路4号院

By subway: 800m southwest of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)

Photo: Sui