Holy Mole: Cantina Agave Brings The Salsa

The vividly colored walls stretched up to the second-floor balcony. Bright window shutters looked down on a bar crowded with customers. Rows of empty tables awaited the patrons who had called ahead. The restaurant was fully booked and we had arrived without a reservation. Luckily, another group’s early departure left a table open and we seized the opportunity.

A Cantina Horchata (RMB 60) came out first, in a Gilligan’s Island-style bamboo cup. The rum-spiked cinnamon rice milk lived up to its exotic presentation. A Jose & Ginger (RMB 60) was syrupy – dominated by sugar, salt and tequila, with the spiciness of ginger only appearing in the last few sips.

The highlight of the meal was the enchiladas (RMB 78), with a lovely red mole sauce and pinto beans that had been simmered in pork fat and bay leaves. Based on a friend’s enthusiastic recommendation, we had high hopes for the blackened fish tacos (RMB 85), but we found them a bit dry, more burnt than blackened. Meanwhile, the chicken
quesadillas (RMB 55), pale and thin, were not as substantial as we’d been expecting.

The nachos (RMB 45 for a half order) came with generous dollops of sour cream and refried beans but scant salsa and cheese – a fact easily remedied by a trip to the salsa bar. Cantina Agave sources their chipotle peppers and other spices abroad, and the extra effort shows. The mango, pineapple and black bean salsa was particularly tasty.

By 8.30pm, the restaurant was full and the atmosphere lively. As we contemplated ordering another round of drinks, however, we were told that we had to relinquish the table to customers with reservations. Clearly, Beijing is hungry for
Mexican food. If Cantina Agave can work out a few kinks, there’s no reason why they can’t achieve the success that they enjoy in Shanghai.

Also try: Q Mex, Sand Pebbles Lounge