Refined Thai Fare in Wudaoying

For many, the thought of Thai food evokes images of tropical night markets: clanking pots, palpable smells and a cacophony of slurps and sniffles. It’s a primitive dining setting, but then again, sweating as you gulp down a bowl of hot curry is a primal act as well.

Lan Ting couldn’t be more different, with its stately wooden tables, evenly spaced paintings and polished pebbles upon which to rest your chopsticks. It’s like visiting the house of a polite, refined relative. An appetizer of shrimp spring rolls (RMB 35) was a tasty and tidy way to start. The red curry beef (RMB 68) came quickly out of the kitchen but the cubes of meat were chewy and bland. In contrast, the Chicken Satay (RMB 25) was tender and flavorful, embellished with a classic spicy peanut sauce.

And yet, the most enjoyable 250m southeast of Andingmen station (Line 2) items were the bolder seafood creations. A squid and glass noodle salad (RMB 25) was not only mouthwateringly tender, but had a tangy dressing that offered the civilized exoticism of a first-class tropical cruise. The stuffed calamari soup (RMB 30) was delightful. The little calamari-skinned pork wontons packed a lot of textures and flavor, leaving us wishing for more.

The avocado milkshake (RMB 40)erred on the side of slightly too sweet, and an overdose of banana washed
away the subtle flavors of the green fruit. However, the Vietnamese coffee (RMB 25) was just the right way to recharge. Lan Ting offers Wudaoying shoppers a tranquil and welcoming place to conclude a day of busy hutong errands.

This article appeared on page 21 of the Beijinger magazine.