Drum Tower Acquires Yet Another Cozy Hutong Bar: Au Goulot

At eight o’clock on a Tuesday evening, the songs my companion described as “French youth hostel music” were suddenly drowned out by party anthems blaring in through the glassless windows. We were sitting in Au Goulot, in the shadow of the Drum Tower, and the dancing geriatrics had just started up in the square outside.

The marvelous French fries – thick cut, lightly salted, and crisp on the outside – went quickly, but we were still lingering over our drinks when the dancers’ music came on. We considered leaving, but decided to stay for another round. I had the Wagin (RMB 40), gin and fresh watermelon juice. It was refreshing and thick like some manner of alcoholic health tonic. One of Au Goulot’s affable owners overheard us deliberating the snack choices and suggested a flame kuche (RMB 50), a thincrusted pizza with bacon and onions.

Au Goulot only opened in May but the place seems like a shrine to some past period of opulence. Dim throughout, the tiny lamp on our table flickered on and off continually. The couches are dingy crushed velvet. There’s a drum kit that looks as though it was hastily stacked when the cops rushed a raging party (they do host DJs and bands from time to time). And that eternal symbol of handsome living, the rotary phone, is scattered throughout.

Although they’re open mornings for coffee and fresh juices (without the gin), Au Goulot seems more like a space designed for the evening hours. They have a large beer selection and some nice wine choices, but we’d recommend the mixed drinks, reasonably priced and stronger than you’re likely to find elsewhere in the area. Have as many as it takes to convince you to order more fries.

Au Goulot
43 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng District (2163 1176)
东城区钟楼湾胡同43号

Also try: Drum and Bell, Nearby the Tree

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Photos: Mitchell Pe Masilun