Shanghai: The City We Hate to Love

There was a time when we Beijingers hated Shanghai. We hated its seeming opulence. We poo-pooed its “history” from a mere century or so ago, compared to our long, rich past. We turned up our noses at their “cuisine,” a semblance of creatures that crawled out of the river and onto a dinner plate. But now, Shanghai’s place in the world is undisputed. In 30 years, a Blade Runner-like skyline has risen from the mud flats on the eastern bank of the Huangpu River. It has hotels included on world’s best lists, and currently has more international residents than Beijing.

Shanghai is just, well, more civilized. A taxi ride is a 
pleasant conveyance there. Lines are (more) orderly. Service is certainly better at restaurants, bars, and nightclubs.

It’s not perfect. The winters are freezing and without heat, and their Mandarin isn’t so hot. Prices are much higher there too, but at least now they’re pleasant 
reminders of a city we’ve grown to like more and more.

WHAT TO SEE
The city’s main attraction is the Bund, an Indian word for waterfront or river bank. Stroll along the promenade at night and gaze on the marvel of Pudong. Take a photo – there may be more buildings by the next time you visit.

WHERE TO STAY
The Mandarin Oriental Shanghai has made its mark on the global hotel scene. In May, the property was named on Conde Nast Traveler’s 2014 Hot List of The Best New 
Hotels in the World, the only Shanghai hotel so 
recognized. Superior rooms, many of which have river views, run about RMB 3,500 per night, including 
breakfast.

Le Royal Meridien is a comfortable base for travelers who would prefer to be on the western side of the river in Puxi. It’s a reasonable walk to or from the Bund, and close to People’s Square. Rooms can be had for about RMB 1,288, including breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT
The city’s most famous Shanghainese restaurant is 
Meilongzhen. Fish, both freshwater and saltwater, are the menu’s focus. Make a reservation, this place is busy and popular.

Although she loves Capital M, her Beijing restaurant, we know that M on the Bund is owner Michelle Garnault’s favorite, and we can understand why. Enjoy signature dishes like the slow-cooked lamb and, of course, M’s Pavlova for dessert, as barges and cargo ships sail slowly by.

Photos: SF Brit, lgao, and David on Flickr