Get Out: Macau, More than Just Gambling

Macau is almost always referred to relative to its fellow former colonial neighbor, Hong Kong. Fifteen years ago, it was the sleepy Portuguese enclave that predated and outlasted Hong Kong as a colony. Now, with an influx of new capital and wealth, both coming from the end of a casino license monopoly in 2001, Macau has left Las Vegas in the dust as the world’s gambling capital, taking in over USD 45 billion in 2013. That was up 19 percent over 2012. Wow.

But don’t give it a miss just because you don’t want to roll the dice. Away from the ferry pier and the main gaming hotels is a lot of hidden charm, some unique food, and remnants of southern Chinese culture that won’t last much longer. Although its official languages are Chinese (Cantonese) and Portuguese, almost any outlet that’s seen a tourist in the last 15 years will have an English menu or someone who speaks enough English to be helpful.

If you want to gamble, the big game in town is baccarat, although you will find slot machines, roulette, and blackjack. Minimum bets are generally much higher than other gambling spots, like Vegas. The main gambling area now is the Cotai Strip, between the islands of Taipa and Coloane. You must be 18 to play. Many casinos will pay out in Macau patacas, the official local currency, but you’ll have to convert it back (for a fee of course) to Hong Kong dollars in order to use your winnings somewhere else. Or you could just blow it all in Macau; there will certainly be enough opportunities to do that for the properly motivated.

What to see: Macau’s travel icon is the southern façade of the Cathedral of St. Paul. Originally built in 1582, the Cathedral, which was also once part of a seminary, was destroyed by a fire-typhoon one-two whammy in 1835. It was reinforced and restored in the early 1990s into its current state as a monument and park.

The exact opposite of a Jesuit-built, cultural and historical landmark is the Macau Tower. It’s 338 meters high, and on a clear day, offers views of all of Macau, neighboring Zhuhai, Hong Kong’s Lantau Island, and other parts of the southern China coast. As one might expect, there are all kinds of opportunities to spend money here, including a cinema, an observation deck, a gift shop (of course), and the world’s second-highest commercial bungie jump, with 233 meters of freefall. The somewhat less adventurous can go for a tethered “skywalk” around the outer rim of the tower. Just don’t change your mind.

Where to stay: The oldest school place in town is the original Lisboa Hotel (not to be confused with the Lisboa Tower nearby). The Lisboa was Macau gambling entrepreneur Stanley Ho’s original venue. It’s gaudy, it’s old, it’s Portugal meets Las Vegas. In other words, it’s fantastic. It’s been described as having a “James Bond” feel, and that’s true, if you remember James Bond as Roger Moore, visiting Macau in 1974’s The Man with the Golden Gun.

For something a bit more reasonable and authentic, try the Pousada de Mong-Ha. Along with its quasi-Portuguese name, this is a high-end hostel that’s off the beaten path. So if you’re looking for an “authentic” Macau experience, in other words a “Lonely Planet authentic experience,” which is another way of saying “the exact same experience that more people had than if they’d bought a guidebook like Fodors or Frommers,” then this is for you. It’s reasonably priced and well-rated by TripAdvisor travelers.

Where to dine: What’s unique about dining in Macau is Macanese cuisine, a combination of southern Chinese favorites with a Portuguese flair, and Sinicized Portuguese delights.

Restaurant Albergue 1601 is probably the top of these choices, both in terms of reputation and cost. Think of the premises as a Macanese siheyuan. There’s African chicken, which doesn’t sound like Macau or Portugal, and stuffed squid, which certainly is. Come here on an extended schedule: this is dining, not eating, and you won’t be in a hurry to leave once you’ve arrived.

If you want to know how the top brass dined back in the day, choose the Club Militar de Macau, the Macau Military Club. Although the Club itself is members only, the dining room is available to the public. Make sure you order one of the bacalhau, or dried codfish, dishes, all of them are superb. Top it off with a fine glass of port from the Club’s extensive wine list.

Photos: WorldFolio, Grayline, 8 Things To Do, Macau 12, About, Britannica