Starbucks Takes on All the Tea in China with New Peach Green Oolong and Grapefruit Black Varieties

China's tea tradition is unparalleled, but that isn't stopping American coffee giant Starbucks from attempting to work its way in. The chic morning joe franchise recently unveiled its Teavana brand in China, which features two cold shaken varieties designed with the Chinese patron in mind: iced shaken peach green oolong tea and iced shaken honey ruby grapefruit black tea.

Belinda Wong, the company's China president, recently told China Daily: "As we continue to deepen the reach of the Starbucks brand in China, our customers are increasingly asking us for new and different ways to experience tea. Just as we've done for coffee, this (Teavana) is tea reimagined at Starbucks."

But how do these teas measure up, really? During a recent visit to a Starbucks outlet near Hujialou, we purchased cups of both the new peach green and grapefruit black varieties (each priced at RMB 34 for a tall, RMB 37 for a grande, and RMB 40 for a venti).

Not to be too presumptuous, but we're quite certain that the peach green will leave Chinese patrons unsatisfied. Despite the chunks of fruit, this beverage had only a hint of sweetness, making it more reminiscent of watered-down juice than anything else. The grapefruit black, however, was much better, thanks to its sharp bitterness and hint of honey aftertaste.

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However, if we had to predict the future and read the tea leaves (pardon the pun), we'd be fairly certain that neither of these options are unique or memorable enough to significantly shake up China's F&B scene. Indeed, after sipping on these mediocre teas, we can't help but advise Wong and her Starbucks brethren to just stick to the beans.

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Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
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Photo: Kyle Mullin, DFIC

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Is there really a gap in the market for more sweet drink options? I mean, really, try buying a cold tea drink just about anywhere around the city (don't bother at Starbucks because you will never get one), and your option will be very low indeed. But you want a drink with sugar in it, well, you don't even need to look; one is bound to hit you in the face, faster than a Kenny G medley.

And after that you can take two more steps and another kiddie cocktail will smack your head again.

Anyone who can't find a sweet enough drink to satisfy themselves is pretty much already in a diabetic coma.

I stay with Santori's oolong for unsweetened tea and Kangshifu Binghongcha for sweetened "tea" -- in fact I don't really care what it is. 4 kuai and 3 kuai, respectively. 

Fruit tea is a little too amorphous. It's usually a mess when people try to bring too many things together, when the original taste of each element is lost. So for me it's either juice or tea, with the exception of a piece of lemon. To the furthest of the limit might be a piece of pear or peach.