Tradition and Innovation: Burgeoning Dress Designer Chilly Chin Talks About Playing with Past and Future Trends

Beijing-based designer Chilly Chin has been making a name for himself on the online shopping platform Taobao ever since the launch of his first collection two years ago. In May of 2016 he unveiled a new line called MiniMoods for younger customers, introducing designs with a modern twist and a more affordable price range.

Chin modeled the garments himself for his Resort 2016 advertising campaign, and subsequently made a lasting impression with fans online. With his collection, titled “Golden Years,” Chin transformed the essence and elegance from Song and Ming dynasty fashion into a contemporary take on the traditional qipao, with a daring high slit and a myriad of delicately embroidered colors. The collection also features scalloped dress hems, off-shoulder necklines, elements from nature, and fabric with a subdued shimmer.

Similar to “Golden Years,” Chin’s fall 2016 collections will also include designs emulating ancient Chinese style but passed through a contemporary lens. Chin told us that two distinct details will dominate the collection. Firstly, as inspired by the Song dynasty, his lightweight overcoats will possess a slim silhouette reinforced by straight lapels. Secondly, as characteristic of the clothes worn by the Khitan people from the Liao dynasty, his double-breasted garments will feature leftover right lapel configuration. These new designs will be unveiled as part of his label, Chilly Chin, in October. Below, the self-taught designer and dressmaker tells us more about his journey, inspirations, and challenges.

We love how catchy your name is! Could you tell us the story behind it?
The Chinese name 覃仙球 (Qin Xianqiu) is actually a pseudonym I gave myself when I tried to write my first novel at 14 years old. I kept using it after that. My English name, Chilly Chin, is translated from my Chinese given name which is 秋 (qiu), meaning chilly. Chin is my family name – I want people to know that I’m Chinese.

Did you always know you wanted to be a fashion designer?
I decided I wanted to be a fashion designer in high school, but I also dreamed of becoming a good writer and winning the Noble Prize! [laughs]

As a self-taught designer, did you face any challenges?
I had to learn about fabric property and fabric treatment, which required me to go to markets to study every kind one by one. I learned through shopping and talking to the shop owners. I want to learn more about silks because the material is so versatile, the colors are vivid and there are many different ways to incorporate it into designs.

Where do you source your fabrics from?
I mainly go to the Dahongmen Fabric Market in Beijing, but sometimes I’ll go all the way to Shanghai or Suzhou. It’s a never-ending process because new fabrics are produced every year.

When did you launch your first collection? How was the public response?
My first collection was about orientalism and launched in August of 2014. People thought the clothes weren’t suitable for daily wear and the designs were a bit naive, but that I had good taste.

Where do you find inspiration?
From everything that attracts my attention! It could be a movie, a song, or a piece of beautiful fabric. My second collection, “1980,” was inspired by the movie Flashdance. I love the coat styles of the 1980s, they invigorated me to design an androgynous womenswear collection that would empower the wearer.

What or who are you influenced by?
Designers who explore romance and fantasy, like Alexander McQueen. He understood designing as an art form and his creations aren’t only fashion designs, they are pieces of art. He’s shown me the importance of knowing who you are. It’s not all about making money or getting other people’s approval. You need to be honest to yourself in your heart and mind.

Could you tell us a bit more about MiniMoods and why you created this line?
MiniMoods is a line for young city girls. Similar to Zara and H&M, it is easygoing and youthful. I started this line as a fast fashion brand because I want to keep Chilly Chin as a high fashion brand. Every designer has to balance between making artwork and earning money. For example, McQueen’s high fashion label was under his name but then, he created McQ, a cheaper line targeting younger customers, in order to increase his sales volume. The equivalent for me is MiniMoods – the line boosts sales, whereas Chilly Chin is a line for me to design what I like.

Would you say that social media has helped you create a name for yourself in the fashion industry or helped your brand receive more recognition?
Social media has helped people learn more about my designs and understand the brand’s story. Not just about the clothes, but also about my life and my ideas behind every collection.

What advice would you give to young designers, like yourself, in Beijing?
To become famous online first, then to design whatever you want.

To view Chin’s collection, visit his online store at shop36104434.world.taobao.com or check out his Weibo at weibo.com/qinxianqiu.

This article first appeared in our magazine. To read the entire September/October issue online, please click here.

Photo courtesy of Chilly Chin