Head to Antlers on Fangjia Hutong for a Gratifying and Homely Matching of Taiwanese Gua Bao and Beer

Antlers, despite its cozy space and even tighter kitchen, or perhaps because of it, is pushing to do a small number of things very well. The newest venue on Fangjia Hutong, what has gradually risen to become Dongcheng’s eminent street for bars and quick and easy alcohol-absorbing snacks, sticks to a similar formula to that of its neighbors (think Ramo for pizza, Tuk Tuk for sandwiches, MoxiMoxi for falafel, and Was Park for burgers) but has a secret weapon up its sleeve: the lesser known southern Chinese snack, gua bao.

Originating in Taiwan, and literally meaning “cut bread,” gua bao are composed of a soft and fluffy c-shaped dough bun, not too dissimilar to that of a baozi casing, which is stuffed to the brim with some variation on a meat and vegetable filling and sprinkled with peanuts. In Antlers’ case, the four options (RMB 22 for one, RMB 58 for a choice of three) – lamb, beef, pork, and red curry tofu – are more gourmet than one you might find on the streets of Taipei but make the perfect selection for fans of the snack or the unacquainted (and soon to be converted).

The beauty of Antlers’ gua bao is that despite the rich meat – slow-cooked in their accompanying sauces for extra tenderness – the in-house made buns are light enough so that they don’t fill you up and detract from your ability to happily eat three or more. The winners here are the classic pork, which is satisfyingly uncomplicated, like a hongshaorou sandwich, as well as the tofu, which avoids the trap of being overly damp and instead provides the ideal match for a beer thanks to its slow-burning red curry sauce.

To push you over the edge, there’s also a range of starters on offer, including Taiwanese breaded and fried rice balls (RMB 15 for one, RMB 35 for three) as well as Cajun shrimp balls and okra plate (RMB 38), the okra finely chopped and topped with fried squid paste and Cajun spices and a homemade remoulade sauce.

The beer selection is nothing groundbreaking for the area but is novel in that it’s arranged in order of price, making for a no-fuss pull from the fridge. The cocktail menu is so far small but accomplished with penicillins, revolvers, and our favorite, frangelico sours, setting you back around RMB 50. Mixed drinks are RMB 30 and shots RMB 20. Management will also be making a concerted effort to expand their whiskey selection in the coming months.

The space suits these classier sips thanks to its warm but dimmed overhanging Edison bulbs, dark wood and white-washed walls, and uncomplicated renovation of its hutong space, retaining the overhanging beams and leaving a charm that stand to make this newbie a favorite haunt on an ever-improving street of simple yet dynamic dining.

Antlers
Tue-Fri 5.30pm-late, Sat-Sun 4pm-late. 34 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District
东城区方家胡同34号

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Photos: Tom Arnstein