Favorite Sichuan Chain Yuxiang Kitchen Gets a Health-Conscious Revamp in Indigo Mall

Boasting six branches in Beijing and two decades of service under its belt, Yuxiang Kitchen has earned its place as a trusted source among old-timers for its mouth-tingling Sichuan cuisine in the capital. Now the chain looks to revamp its store so as to attract a younger, more health-conscious crowd with dishes that are lighter on the oil.

That's not to say that the oil has disappeared – far from it – but after sampling smattering of Yuxiang's favorites you can tell that the kitchen has moved far from its local Chongqing "Jianghu cuisine" streetside roots. Now, their flavors cut through the trademark puddle of chilies and grease for textures that are delicate and clear.

Take for example the koushuiji. It's a vibrant combination of succulent Guangzhou-sourced chicken and silky chili oil that you'll have to force yourself not to polish off before the more robust mains hit the table.

The pork ribs are equally moreish, the soft and reddish meat falling off the bone and accented by a sprinkling of pickled vegetables.

Now that your stomach's lined, jump into the mains. We recommend either the Sichuan pepper oil poached frog (RMB 129, pictured above), notable here for using young frogs instead of the usual bullfrog, making for tender chunks of soft meat that soak up the 15 various spices they're cooked in. Don't be put off by the mountain of Sichuan peppercorns either. They are indeed numbing, but not to the point of tastebud death. Not a fan of frog? The poached fish (RMB 129) makes for a similarly chili-infused alternative.

Cool your mouth off with a plate of romanesco broccoli flash-fried with a light soy coating, which not only looks incredible but provides a decided crunch and slightly sweet tang to the proceedings.

Finally, either the sizzling bowl of mapo tofu or dandan noodles (pictured above) will help you lean back in satiated glory. The latter feature homemade spinach noodles in a piquant sesame sauce, a pairing that is so addictively refreshing you'll pick at loose strands until there's nothing left, despite calls from your aching belly to stop.

In keeping with its neighbors, Yuxiang Kitchen's new digs are shiny and inviting, the kind of place you could imagine filling with three generations of family on a Saturday afternoon. The tasteful blue and white palette of the dining area complement the cloud-inscribed China teapots while a small outside dining area overlooks Indigo's lofty atrium. Coupled with the food, it makes for a modern twist on Sichuan dining that wouldn't go amiss for a midweek treat or when the ever-discerning parents are in town.

Yuxiang Kitchen (Indigo Mall)
Daily 11am-9pm. 3/F, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (8426 0648)
朝阳区酒仙桥路18颐堤港3层

Photos: Tom Arnstein